Unique, seasonal dishes shine at local restaurants

2022-05-22 - By Carey Sweet

Seafood has always been a highlight of the Santa Cruz dining scene and the ultra-fresh stuff remains a top draw. For a change of pace, though, you might be in the mood for elegant roast duck, a char-grilled steak or even the best, cheesiest potato skins you might ever have.

Read on, and eat on.

TRESTLES

Opened in July 2021, the stylish Trestles immediately found a loyal audience with Capitola locals, drawn by chef Nick Sherman’s inventive way with contemporary American cuisine.

And despite the challenges of opening during the pandemic, there actually was a silver lining. Sherman had been working at the former Redd restaurant in Yountville, then at the former Martini House in St. Helena, at El Dorado Kitchen in Sonoma, FARM at Carneros in Napa and the former Basalt in Napa.

“When I left Santa Cruz in 2005 to attend cooking school in Napa Valley, it was always my dream to return home and open a small restaurant,” Sherman said. “After a few years, though, life took its course, and I had no intentions to return. Once COVID happened, however, I was spending more time at home in Capitola and found a perfect location for my small, dream restaurant.”

The seasonal menu changes often, but you can count on bright flavors, such as rich, crispy pork belly with tart green apples, watermelon radish and miso vinaigrette, or in another take, that same succulent belly laced with fiery Korean chile glaze, apple purée and miso.

Seafood also plays a starring role, such as ahi carpaccio with creamy tempura avocado, passion fruit and chile crisp, or crispy skin striped bass dressed with asparagus, gribiche and tomato conserva. Anything from the ocean is the chef’s personal favorite.

“I had hopes of being able to fish in the mornings, and use the daily catch for the restaurant in the evenings,” Sherman said. “Obviously, I was naive as to the ins and outs of running a restaurant. Needless to say, I hardly get time to fish now.”

With 50 seats inside and another dozen at the outdoor bar and firepit lounge, the restaurant is sold out most evenings, keeping the chef and his crew hustling to send out fare like tombo tuna tartare tucked in crunchy taco shells with avocado mousse and chipotle crema; elegant shrimp and grits of head-on prawns, Anson Mills corn, Spanish chorizo and pickled sweet peppers; or roasted duck breast plated with mushrooms, butternut ginger puree, turnips and seasonal citrus.

Most of the fruit and vegetables comes from Dirty Girl Produce in Santa Cruz and the Aptos Farmers’ Market, and there’s an emphasis on vegetarian dishes.

“Our tempura is a really popular dish right now,” Sherman said. “We use whole young fava beans with fava leaves, marinated onions, Korean chile and shiso ranch dressing.”

Now that travel has opened back up, more tourists are discovering the intimate retreat, dining amid the warm brick walls, dark wood furnishings and low lighting and sipping wines from Santa Cruz, the Central Coast, France, Spain, Italy and even Morocco. There are natural wines, as well — Subject To Change Monster Party brings a 2020 Pet Nat Rouge sparkling from Sonoma, dancing with vibrant blackberry, raspberry and cranberry plus a delicate touch of the earthy funk that such “pure” wines are known for.

As for the Trestles name, that comes from the restaurant’s location next to the iconic Capitola trestle bridge, built in the 1800s and measuring 332 feet long.

SHADOWBROOK

A sleek red cable car whisks you up the hillside, delivering you to a meandering path through lush gardens and waterfalls and on to the restaurant for classic American and continental cuisine. Since 1947, this has been a favorite romantic destination for fine dining in a lavish setting of stone fireplaces, Swiss chalet décor, a rooftop cocktail deck overlooking Soquel Creek and a bar made from huge, recycled antique wine tanks.

Owner Ted Burke added a wine cellar, plus a bakery that creates breads, desserts, wedding cakes and Shadowbrook’s signature orange rolls showcased at Sunday brunch.

Traditional dishes beckon, such as bacon wrapped prawns, gooey baked brie slicked in jalapeño jelly, clam chowder stocked with ovenroasted sweet corn and bacon and ahi niçoise salad. New England sea scallops come with sautéed spinach, whipped potatoes and mushroom sherry cream, while prime sirloin arrives char-grilled with seasoned butter, smoked Gouda potato gratin, wild mushroom-cipollini and onion ragout.

You’ll want to indulge in the Jack Daniel’s mud pie, too, layered with Marianne’s coffee crunch ice cream handcrafted in Santa Cruz.

JACK O’NEILL RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE

The links to Santa Cruz are rich, with the restaurant named after the legendary surfer, wetsuit inventor, marine advocate and Santa Cruz native Jack O’Neill.

So naturally, the marine views are spectacular, spanning the endless ocean, a romantic pier, Cowell Beach and sunsets casting gold across the water. The food impresses, too — Executive Chef Gus Trejo works with more than 20 local farms and follows the guidelines established by the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch program to ensure all seafood served is sustainable.

Come for daily brunch — you’ll love the Pacific catch ceviche dashed in Peruvian leche de tigre (the spicy citrus-and-chile marinade used to cure fish) and the Dungeness crab Benedict crowned in zingy citrus hollandaise.

At dinner, start with duck toast topped in velvety confit and mushrooms or the almond crusted mussels (the crunchy accent is delightful) tossed with roasted peppers and saba. Then move on to an entrée of roasted Fogline Farm chicken with stone-ground grits, harvest vegetable and savory bone jus, pasta tossed with prawns, seasonal ravioli, pea shoots and prawn bisque.

BRUNO’S BAR AND GRILL

Owners Rogelio and Joanne Guzman want everyone to have fun at their casual pub and sports lounge. So they set up billiards, ping pong, Foosball, shuffleboard and darts, plus live music, plenty of TVs for watching games and a cocktail deck set with fire pits.

Go big and feed your belly with the Naughty Fries, seasoned wedge potatoes smothered in cheddar and jack cheese, grilled onions, jalapeños and creamy sauce or the hefty potato skins loaded with mac ‘n’ cheese, bacon and sour cream.

Double burgers are best sellers, too, piled with all kinds of toppings like Swiss, grilled onions, bacon, mushrooms, lettuce and tomato; or habanero aioli, pepperjack cheese, chipotle peppers, caramelized bacon, onions, lettuce and tomato. You can even get a mini burger as a garnish for the Big Bastard Bloody, a crazy concoction of a 68-ounce giant Bloody Mary with 24 ounces of Tito’s vodka, half a chicken, a huge beef rib, a cheeseburger, candied bacon, a buffalo wing, peppers, veggies and more.

SEABRIGHT DELI

You may not fit into your swimsuit after scarfing many of these sandwiches, but calories — who cares — when the flavors are so fantastic? House smoked meats, premium cheeses, local veggies and handcrafted jams… they all come together for powerful combos like juicy brisket piled high with jalapeño lime slaw, dill pickles, marinated tomatoes, fresh herb spread, dill aioli and barbecue sauce on a toasted French roll. Round things out with a local craft beer on the dog-friendly patio.