Redd Wood tops more than pizza
It’s interesting how the right talent and a tight concept will turn a fledging space into a hot ticket.
Cantinetta Piero in the Hotel Luca lasted less than three years, even though it had a big budget and was built from the ground up. While the interior was pleasant, the layout was awkward and the Italian food uneven. After one visit, I decided to pass on a review because it didn’t seem special and paled next to many of the other restaurants in the Napa Valley.
Last year the hotel was taken over the Auberge group and renamed North Block. Richard Reddington, who had already proved himself at the Auberge resort and as the owner of his own place, Redd, took over the restaurant and converted it into an upscale pizzeria, called Redd Wood.
The interior was changed completely by Erin Martin, who gutted the light walls and finished floors right down to the concrete. Dark wood slats now cover the walls, and the door openings are trimmed in black metal. About the only element recognizable from before is the open kitchen.
The room was also rearranged to include a bar. It’s separated by a glass partition and defined by a ceiling punc-
tuated by dozens of single Edison bulbs that resemble stars shining in the night sky, all of which helps make the dining room more intimate and inviting. A room to the side of the kitchen now has a communal table with a chandelier made with long fluorescent light tubes, and doors that open to an outdoor seating area. The only time you think you’re in a hotel is when you have to walk across the breezeway to use the bathroom in the lobby.
On the night of our initial visit, that area was closed off because it was booked for a going-away party for Nicolas Fanucci, the French Laundry general manager who was moving to Philadelphia to take over the legendary Le Bec Fin.
We were seated in the 58-seat dining room next to Margrit Mondavi, who said this was her fourth or fifth visit — and the place had been open only about six weeks. She and her late husband, Robert Mondavi, are honored in the restaurant — the back wall of the side room features their Wappo Hill mailbox framed by dozens of wooden squares holding bottles of wine. On other visits we saw other Napa Valley luminaries, showing that this is becoming a local hangout.
The most significant change has been the food from Reddington and Jake Kossmann. Reddington also hired Liza Shaw, former A16 chef, who lends her distinctive touch to the pizzas. Under this dynamic team, the food is no longer just passable — it’s superb.
Wood-fired oven
A large gold “Pizzeria” is lettered across the front plateglass window, but ironically that’s not the reason I’d head here. Baked in a wood-fired oven, the pizza has a fine blistered crust, but on one visit the pie lacked flavor and the tomato sauce on top tasted a bit watery. On another visit we had a much better meat pie with asparagus ($16), prosciutto, red onion, taleggio cheese and an egg in the center.
It could be that my mild disappointment was intensified because everything else is so exceptional, starting with the shaved spring vegetable salad ($12). Thin ribbons of carrots, radishes and asparagus were tossed with Little Gem leaves, fava beans and sugar snap pods split open to reveal the round peas inside. The elements were brought together by the Green Goddess dressing — creamy, smooth and tangy from anchovy. Another equally fine salad featured roasted beets and bitter greens ($13) with Gorgonzola, avocado and smoked pistachio pesto.
I could also be happy with any of the sides ($7), especially the generous mound of lightly fried Brussels sprouts and several kinds of cauliflower tossed with a few arugula leaves. It could be a starter or an accompaniment to one of the five main courses.
There are about a dozen reasons to stay with the small