Chinese oasis in quiet area
Square 31 encompasses much of Diamond Heights, home to steep hills, curving streets, lovely homes and some of the best views in the city. But restaurants? Not so much.
Although it’s surrounded by strong food neighborhoods like West Portal, Noe Valley and Glen Park, Diamond Heights has but a single food hub, Diamond Heights Shopping Center.
Next to Safeway and a bakery named Creighton’s is a not-subtle glowing sign advertising burgers and sushi. It’s the sign for Choice Yakiniku, a hole-in-the-wall serving Japanese and American food, with some Korean items to boot.
Our square’s winner, All Season Restaurant, has no such identity crisis. It is a Cantonese restaurant, specializing in seafood and southern Chinese cooking.
Less than two years ago, All Season replaced Yet Wah, the neighborhood’s 40-year-old star attraction. The Yet Wah fan club might still harbor a few broken hearts, but All Season has filled its shoes as best it can.
Bow-tied waiters flit around the white-clothed tables that fill the expansive second-floor space. One look at the menu and you know it’s not your average Chinese American takeout joint, although takeout is available, as well as dim sum to go on the first floor.
The first three menu items are fish liver, jellyfish and the mysteriously tantalizing “Couple’s Delight.” Beyond that, the selections are extensive — and perhaps challenging for some to navigate.
Go to www. sfgate.com/ food for a video of this square
Our advice: Make your way through the sections, ask for recommendations (or even better, go with a Cantonese expert), order liberally and hope to stumble upon a few winning dishes. There’s surely a cheesy “diamond in the rough” wisecrack to be made somewhere in here.