San Francisco Chronicle

Apples at the core of dessert

- Emily Luchetti is the executive pastry chef at Waterbar and Farallon in San Francisco, the author of several baking books, and the winner of the Best Pastry Chef award from the James Beard Foundation. E-mail: food@sfchronicl­e.com By Emily Luchetti

Thanksgivi­ng is a tricky holiday for me when it comes to desserts. My family wants traditiona­l desserts, but I find them boring and want something new.

We’ve finally figured out a good compromise. My sister-in-law makes the pies, which she’s really good at, and that frees me up to make something different.

That something — which can work for a sweet snack earlier in the day, for the meal itself or for later in the long holiday weekend — often includes apples.

Lately, I’ve been roasting them. I got the idea from the savory chefs at Farallon. They toss potatoes lightly with olive oil and salt and spread them in a single layer on a hot baking pan. Cooking them on a preheated pan gives them added crispness and color.

I thought why not take this into my pastry world and apply the same principles with apples with sugar?

To find which apples would work best, I tested nine varieties: SweeTango, Fuji, Golden Delicious, Ambrosia, Braeburn, Pinata, Pink Lady, Gala and Honey Crisp. While they all tasted good, their flavor varied, and I found the Ambrosia, Braeburn, Pinata, Pink Lady and Honey Crisp the best for my recipes. These bright red apples also looked the best once baked.

Roast the apples until they are soft and the juices have disappeare­d. Some varieties will take longer than others. Some may caramelize quickly, others not at all. Keep an eye on them and you’ll be fine.

Once cool, they sometimes stick a little to the baking sheet. If that happens, remove them with a metal spatula or pop them in the oven for a few minutes.

I have become such a fan of roasted apples that I am continuall­y thinking of new ways to incorporat­e them into my desserts. At Farallon, I served them as part of an apple ice cream sundae. Here, I use them in Apple Puffs and pound cake.

You can also serve them over ice cream, with angel food cake or with your breakfast yogurt.

 ?? Craig Lee / Special to The Chronicle; styling by Katie Fleming ??
Craig Lee / Special to The Chronicle; styling by Katie Fleming

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