The wine list

If you have an old wine you’ve been wanting to try, the Thomas is the place to pop the cork. If you bring in a bottle from 2002 or earlier, there is no corkage fee. If you don’t bring a wine, the list, put together by Bradley Wasserman, is well crafted and interesting. It starts with Family Favorites, a very personal selection with explanations. Choices include Henri Goutrobe Brut Champagne ($129); 2010 Stony Hill Riesling ($48) and the Failla Occidental Ridge Pinot Noir ($148). After this introduction, Wasserman offers a fine selection of sparkling wines and some out-of-the-mainstream whites, such as the 2011 Tatomer Paragon Gruner Veltiner ($39) from Edna Valley and the 2009 Arbe Garbe Ribolla Gialla ($59) from Napa. Reds follow the same pattern, and there’s always someone on the floor to offer advice. While the average markup hovers just over three times wholesale, the wines are properly stored and presented. The 15 by-the-glass selections range from $7 for the 2011 Blue Plate Chenin Blanc on tap to $22 for the 2009 Faust Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine list is matched by the spirits list, which is strong in just about every category. The cocktails nod to the classics, but include creative concoctions like gin and tonic ($13) with Beefeater gin, house-made tonic water, a long spear of cucumber ice and a garnish of cucumber ribbons. Rarely does a restaurant that tries to do it all succeed; the Thomas is an exception. If you bring your own wine younger than 2002, corkage is $25. It’s waived for every bottle purchased from the list.