Trend-setter now a classic
In the review a few months after Absinthe opened in 1998, I noted that the restaurant was “promoting the rejuvenation of the cocktail.”
At the time, spirits lived in the shadows of wine and only the classic restaurants promoted by the Herb Caen crowd offered them, mostly martinis and Manhattans.
Absinthe did something that others have now followed: re-envision the classics and add a few of their own. In retrospect, it’s clear that Absinthe was near the epicenter of a trend that has transformed the dining scene.
Over the last 17 years, the restaurant has experienced its ups and downs — not only in the bar, but in the kitchen. But now things are on a steady track with bar manager Jared Schmidt and chef Adam Keough. Keough, who has been in the kitchen five years, mixes up favorites such as a stellar coq au vin ($29) infused with bacon, and an equally good French onion soup ($6/$10) that takes three days to prepare. There are also newer items, such as salmon collar ($11) drizzled with a soy-based sauce and served with pickled vegetables.
Running a 120-seat restaurant close to the performing arts district is a challenge, not only because of the pre-show crowds but because of the difficult parking that intimidates regular diners, despite the restaurant’s valet.
I had to smile when we introduced ourselves at the host stand 10 minutes early because we were lucky enough to find parking nearby, and the host responded, “We’re seating guests on time tonight, so if you could step to the bar, we will get you when your table is ready.” It was tough to comply: The bar was full and there was no place to wait without being in someone’s way. So we stood awkwardly in the middle of the lounge until our table was available, (I can understand the bar’s popularity because the cocktails are excellent.)
The dining room has a French Deco vibe that has held up over the past 17 years. Service from that point on was smooth and went off without a hitch.
It’s hard to quibble with the chef ’s technique. He’s re-envisioned the Caesar salad ($8/$12) by stacking the leaves on top of each other and cutting and arranging them so they make a rectangle. However, I would rather that it had simply been tossed so that the dressing was evenly applied.
His talent also shines on the generous mound of clams and mussels ($15) in a charred tomato broth with loads of basil. We ordered them with fries ($7), which are always excellent.
He snugly wraps bacon around pork tenderloin ($29) and cuts it on the bias, placing it atop sweet corn pudding, small potatoes, broccoli and pork jus. Grilled Hawaiian swordfish ($32), on a cannellini bean purée with eggplant, pine nuts and peppers, was disappointing because the texture of the fish was similar to that of the purée underneath.
Some combinations, while solid, weren’t very exciting. I wish there were more unexpected flourishes like those on the brunch menu, which has lunch items in addition to the expected egg dishes. For example, instead of the classic French dip, his sandwich includes pork and a green chile dipping sauce ($15). Instead of putting poached eggs atop hash, he places them on duck ragout ($18) with chive potato cake and Bearnaise sauce.
A few more flourishes came with dessert. The German chocolate cake ($11) looked like a disk of ganache. I was about to grumble about false advertising when I cut into it and saw an intricate pastry layered with coconut, cake and chocolate ganache — all the ingredients of the traditional recipe. Buttermilk panna cotta ($9) was textbook perfect, topped with a knob of lightly green, basilscented meringue and strawberry-flavored crumbs.
Given its prime location near the performing arts venues, dining at Absinthe is much better than it has to be. That’s the reason the restaurant not only survives, but thrives.