RICK STEVES’ EUROPE.
Lyon is France’s best- kept secret. Its urban scene is enjoyably elegant without a hint of crass tourism. For the people who live in the city — sandwiched between the Burgundy and Provence regions — dining out is a passion. Plan for a full day of sightseeing and then kick back in the evening just as the locals do, at a characteristic cafe or restaurant.
Lyon (pronounced “leeohn”) has been among France’s leading cities since the Romans ruled. In spite of its workaday, businessfirst facade, Lyon is the most historic and culturally important city in France after Paris. Here, you’ll experience ancient Roman sights, Old World cobbled alleys, Renaissance mansions, a broad range of worthwhile museums, and the classy, Parisian-feeling shopping streets of the Presqu’ile district.
A funicular brings you up Fourviere Hill to some of the city’s best sights. Here, the Gallo-Roman Museum makes it clear how important Lyon was in ancient times. From atop the hill, enjoy the grand view of the city, with two major rivers running through it, the Rhône and Saône. On the funicular descent back into the Old Town (Vieux Lyon), you fast-forward through history to the 16th century and France’s best concentration of well-preserved Renaissance buildings.
The traffic-free street named Rue St. Jean is the main drag, flanked by other pedestrian-only lanes. The city’s trademark serpentine passageways ( tra
boules) were essentially shortcuts linking the Old Town’s three main streets. Lyon’s traboules give visitors a hide-and-seek opportunity to discover pastel courtyards, lovely loggias and delicate arches.
Getting around is a joy: Electric buses have replaced diesel buses in the historic core, and bike lanes run everywhere. Cyclists enjoy the new bike path along the east side of the Rhône River.
Museumgoers head to the Fine Arts Museum (second in France only to the Louvre), the Silk Workshop (demonstrating handmade silk printing), the Museums of Textiles and Decorative Arts (one tracing textile weaving over 2,000 years, the other featuring 18th century decor) and the Puppets of the World Museum, celebrating Guignol puppetry, the still-vibrant tradition first created in Lyon by an unemployed silk worker.
For many, Lyon’s most gripping sight is the newly renovated Resistance and Deportation History Center, with well-organized displays and videos telling the inspirational story of the French Resistance.
For dinner, head to either the Old Town or the Presqu’ile, which each have thriving pedestrian avenues. Join the parade of restaurant shoppers and peruse the bouchons — characteristic bistros that are especially fun in the evening. Lyon’s restaurants and accommodations are more affordable than you’ll find in Paris.
Lyon feels relaxed, welcoming and surprisingly un-touristy. It seems everyone’s enjoying the place — and they’re all French.