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High: French Laundry: Few chefs have had more of an impact than Thomas Keller, who turned a stone building that was once a laundry into an international destination. Practically single-handedly, he put Yountville on the map — not only by luring a host of top chefs to the town, but also by opening his own collection of restaurants, which includes Bouchon, Bouchon Bakery and Ad Hoc. This summer, the 22-year-old French Laundry will begin a new chapter with a whole new kitchen. Keller asked international design firm Snøhetta to create a modern structure inspired by the glass pyramid of the Louvre to contrast with the century-old building’s elegant dining room. Chef David Breeden continues to be inspired by what’s grown in the extensive gardens across the street; it’s a treat before lunch or dinner to walk around the manicured beds and to visit the chicken coop with its French blue doors. Diners will also be relieved that even with a new kitchen, they will still enjoy some signature dishes, such as the salmon tartare cones. Specialties: Menu changes nightly, but signature dishes include Oyster and Pearls (pearl tapioca with oysters and caviar); Beets and Leeks; cornets of salmon tartare; Coffee and Doughnuts (espresso mousse and doughnuts)
6640 Washington St., Yountville, (707) 944-2380. http://frenchlaundry.com. Lunch Friday-Sunday; dinner nightly. Price: Chef’s nine-course tasting menu: $310 (includes service).
Low: Ciccio: The Altamura family has been growing and making wine in the Napa Valley since 1855, and feeding hungry diners since 2012. Every detail has been considered in the decor, where the subtle repetition of orange carries through in the thin stripes on the light fixtures, on the banquette upholstery and even in the water glasses. Frank Altamura may love wine, but he is also a Negroni aficionado, offering seven versions served in special oval glasses. Polly Lappetito is keenly focused on what comes out of her open kitchen. The red-tiled wood oven produces some of the best pizza in Northern California, as well as roast artichokes, cauliflower with raisins and pine nuts and other specialties. Lappetito focuses on updating Italian American classics, appropriate for the building, constructed in 1916 as an Italian general store. She might produce chicken Parmesan on one night, pork chop Milanese on another.
Specialties: Wood-fired pizza; bucatini with black pepper; whole roasted fish; pork Milanese; cannoli. 6770 Washington St., Yountville, (707) 945-1000. http://ciccionapa valley.com. Dinner WednesdaySunday. Prices: $19-$28