The Restaurant at Meadowood
The most impressive quality of this Napa Valley restaurant is that it couldn’t exist in any other locale. Plants from the 3-acre garden are woven into every dish in innovative ways: Chef Christopher Kostow cures okra seeds to produce “caviar” and serves them with sweet potato blinis, creme fraiche and slices of raw local fish. He layers a head of cabbage with black cod; potato puree becomes a base for shaved foie gras and a vibrant sorrel citrus sauce. Local olives flavor pudding topped with kumquats and puffed millet.
Restaurant director Nathaniel Dorn continues to upgrade the experience, too. This year they removed 10 seats, painted the walls a rich brown and added lighting that gives every stone table a gemlike sparkle. The tab for the fixed-price menu increased from $225 for nine courses to $330 for 12. Yet Kostow always delivers, and no two meals are ever the same. For an even bigger splurge: The fourseat chef ’s counter offers 20 courses for $500. Or consider the $90 three-course menu served only in the bar.
Specialties: The highly local tasting menu changes regularly, but always has local reference points.
900 Meadowood Lane, St. Helena, (707) 967-1205. www.therestaurantatmeadowood.com. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Prices: Bar menu: (three courses) $90; Tasting menu (approx. 12 courses): $330; Counter menu (approx. 15 courses): $500 (inclusive of gratuity; menu includes option of wine pairing at additional cost).