Ballentine Vineyards: Malvasia Bianca
A framed photograph of Van and Betty Ballentine on their wedding day, in 1953, perches behind the bar at their winery’s tasting room. The couple are primarily grape growers who sell to other wineries — Betty’s family has owned vineyards in Napa since 1906 — but they make about 2,500 cases of wine from their estate every year. (Their son Bill also operates a small, very high-end winery across the street called William Cole.)
Usual suspects Chardonnay, Zinfandel and Cabernet are present in the Ballentine portfolio, but so are less common sightings, like a varietal Petit Verdot (concentrated, with a tart, underripe plum flavor; $42), Chenin Blanc (soft and citrusy; $24) and — most unusual of all — Malvasia Bianca, made frizzante-style ($30).
Though “Malvasia” can refer to a number of different relatives around the world, the Malvasia that’s been in the Ballentines’ vineyard for decades is a variety originally from Piedmont, in northern Italy. The grape is aromatically expressive, with a kind of oily texture (think Viognier) and tropical flavors. Offdry versions are not uncommon; Ballentine’s is lightly sweet, and slightly fizzy (think Moscato — but good Moscato). It tastes like lemon drop candy and, at 9.1 percent alcohol by volume, goes down just as easily.
You won’t see the Malvasia on the tasting menu, but the Ballentine staff is always happy to open a bottle at the end of your flight. Their Malvasia grapes also make appearances in the tasty Maple Station White Blend (with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Chenin; $28) and, in very small proportions, in the reserve Chardonnay ($45).
2820 St. Helena Hwy. N., St Helena. (707) 963-7919. www.ballen tinevineyards.com. Open 10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily by appointment. Tasting fees $15-$30.