Heitz Cellar: Grignolino

Heitz Cellar is one of Napa’s great family estates, famous for its Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon — first produced in 1966, and according to the Heitz family, the first singlevineyard Cabernet from Napa. But the Heitz family had Grignolino before it ever had Martha’s. When the family purchased its first 8-acre parcel, next to the tasting room in St. Helena, they found the land planted to this little-known Piedmontese grape. Although they have since replanted those original Grignolino vines, the Heitzes planted new ones at another of their St. Helena vineyards. They’ve never stopped making the wine. Grignolino is a light red grape, from which Heitz makes a red wine ($22) and a rosé; both are delicious. The red wine is very light-bodied, rustic, earthy and intensely floral, with a candied red-fruit character (though Heitz’s versions are completely dry), prompting inevitable comparisons to Beaujolais. If Grignolino isn’t on the tasting agenda, you need only mention the name — or, rather, ask how to pronounce it — and the tasting room staff will always pour you a taste. There’s usually an open bottle. Heitz also makes a Port-style wine ($35) from the traditional grapes used in real Port, from Portugal’s Douro Valley, including Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. Figgy and rich, it’s certainly worth a try — and you may find you prefer it to the Cabernet- and Zinfandel-based “Ports” that abound elsewhere in these parts. 436 St. Helena Hwy., St. Helena. (707) 963-3542. www. heitzcellar.com. Open 11 a.m.-4:30 p.m. daily without an appointment. Tastings complimentary.