Hawaiian Macaroni & Cheese

Serves 12-14

This recipe by Sarah Fritsche from The Chronicle archives is similar in spirit to Homeroom’s Hawaiian Mac. While Homeroom uses bacon in its version, this one calls for cubed pieces of Spam — a nod to the islands’ obsession with the tinned meat. Oven-roasted pineapple, caramelized sweet Maui onion and a macadamia nut-panko crust give this over-the-top dish even more tropical flare.

Topping and filling

½ stick (4 tablespoons) butter, melted 1 cup panko bread crumbs 1 cup chopped macadamia nuts (the size of coarse bread crumbs) 2½ cups diced (½-inch) fresh pineapple 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 cups diced sweet Maui onion (about 2 small onions) 1 (12-ounce) can Spam, cut into ½-inch cubes

Sauce and pasta

½ cup (4 ounces) butter 4 tablespoons flour 5 cups milk 6 ounces white cheddar, shredded 4 ounces Muenster, shredded 6 ounces Italian Fontal cheese, shredded (can substitute Fontina or more Muenster) 4 ounces Parmesan cheese, shredded 1½ teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ teaspoon cayenne 1 pound elbow macaroni

For the topping and filling: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a small bowl, combine the butter, panko and macadamia nuts. Set aside.

Spread out the pineapple evenly on a baking sheet. Roast until it just starts to caramelize, approximately 30-35 minutes, stirring once or twice. Remove from oven and set aside. Leave oven on.

Heat the olive oil in a saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the onions, reduce heat to medium-low and cook until caramelized to a deep golden brown, about 20-25 minutes. Stir occasionally.

Increase the heat to high and add the Spam and roasted pineapple. Briefly saute and toss to combine. Remove from heat and set aside.

For the sauce and pasta: Butter a 4-quart casserole or 9-by-13-inch baking pan.

Melt the butter in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. When the butter just starts to bubble, whisk in the flour. Cook until it begins to smell nutty, about 2-3 minutes, whisking constantly. Slowly whisk in the milk and bring to a boil, stirring often. Reduce heat to a gentle simmer and cook, stirring constantly to prevent scorching, about 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat and gradually whisk in the cheeses. Add the salt, pepper and cayenne, and stir until smooth. Adjust seasoning to taste, if needed.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil and cook the macaroni until just al dente. Drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of pasta water.

In a large bowl, combine the pasta, reserved pasta water and sauce until the noodles are well coated. Fold in the Spam mixture.

Pour the macaroni mixture into the pan, then top with the bread crumb mixture. Bake until bubbly and golden, about 20-25 minutes.