San Francisco Chronicle

Asparagus the bright spot for soaked farmers

- By Sarah Fritsche Sarah Fritsche is a San Francisco Chronicle staff writer. Email: sfritsche@sfchronicl­e.com Twitter/Instagram: @foodcentri­c

Ask any farmer and you’ll hear the same story: The success of crops depends largely on the whims of Mother Nature.

Over the past three months, a shockingly abundant rainy season has provided Northern California with much needed relief after an epic drought, but for small farms, the accompanyi­ng flooding and other headaches have proven there can be too much of a good thing.

Like so many farmers, Nigel Walker, who operates Eatwell Farms in Dixon (Solano County), takes it all in stride. “As a farmer you can get all worried about weather and bent out of shape, but there’s really nothing we can do,” he says.

As long as the fields remain muddy and waterlogge­d, Walker and other farmers are unable to get into their fields to plant their crops. Rainy, sun-free days also ensure that bees aren’t flitting about, pollinatin­g orchard fruit blossoms, which have already begun to appear on trees.

For consumers, all of this means that we can expect delays in the arrival of most spring produce. While Walker would normally have planted spinach, lettuce and cabbage by now, he will have to wait until April to plant his spring greens, in tandem with summer crops like eggplants and tomatoes.

“It’s fine and dandy drinking coffee watching the rain now, but we’ve got work to do,” Walker says.

The rainy season has proven especially harsh for Greg Massa of Massa Organics. Though Massa still has plenty of brown rice and almonds, his two main crops, to sell, his off-season crops — such as oats, wheat and bell beans — were killed because of flooding.

“These crops we’ve already put in tens of thousands of dollars to get going and they drowned,” Massa says. “That was money thrown away. Financiall­y, it’s a big hit.”

While many farmers may face weather-related losses and delays with their upcoming crops, there is a bright side to be found. Asparagus — a harbinger of spring produce — has already made its first appearance at local markets. That’s a full two weeks earlier than usual, according to Roscoe Zuckerman, owner of Zuckerman’s Farm in Stockton.

“Asparagus is all temperatur­e driven as far as when it comes,” Zuckerman says. “When you start to see almond trees bloom, or you see spring flowers coming, it means asparagus is starting to grow.”

Like the other growers, the third-generation farmer says the rains have created challenges in production. However, farming below sea level in Sacramento’s delta region, where water levels are controlled by levees surroundin­g the farmland, Zuckerman is well-versed in the importance of striking a delicate balance. “We’re always pumping water back into the system. It’s a constant, trying to keep your water level at a certain level so things don’t go underwater,” he says.

While the farmers should have a bit of a break from the weather, Walker has a message for Mother Nature: “If anyone has a direct line with whoever’s doing this, I’d appreciate they turn the tap off. At least until next November.”

 ?? Sarah Fritsche / The Chronicle ?? Fried Asparagus With Meyer Lemon-Mustard Dipping Sauce makes good use of the early crop.
Sarah Fritsche / The Chronicle Fried Asparagus With Meyer Lemon-Mustard Dipping Sauce makes good use of the early crop.

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