Zarzuela leads the way with 3-star tapas
Classic Spanish restaurant in S.F. continues to impress
In the last decade, Spanish restaurants have come to the forefront with places such as Contigo, Coqueta, Aatxe and Bellota in San Francisco and Shakewell and Duende in Oakland.
Yet one place that continues to impress me is one of the oldest. Zarzuela, at Hyde and Union streets, was opened in 1994 by Andy Debbane and Lucas Gasco, long before the current crop came on the scene. Zarzuela has been around so long, in fact, that it still doesn’t have a website; doesn’t accept reservations; and doesn’t impose any “San Francisco surcharges.”
While many newer Spanish restaurants have a more modern, Northern California vibe in both food and decor, Zarzuela reminds me of the tapas restaurants in Barcelona, with its stucco walls, tile floor and close-together white-clothed tables.
However, since the storefront windows overlook Hyde and Union, diners know they are in San Francisco because of the constant churn of tourist-filled cable cars passing by.
Each year when I return for the annual Top 100 guide, I think it may be the year it should come off, but Zarzuela’s food has never failed to impress, whether it’s the classic tortilla Espanola ($6.95), creamy chicken and ham croquettes ($7.25) or the tender poached octopus fanned over potatoes with onion, pimentos and olive oil ($17.95).
Most dishes strike a deep, sultry tone whether it’s white bean stew ($9.25) with thick coins of sausage-braised quail ($9.95) or shrimp in a garlicky olive oil ($9.25).
By today’s standards, the menu is enormous, with more than 40 savory courses, not including a few nightly specials. Over the decades I’ve ordered many dishes that I want to try again, so I end up ordering too much, whether it’s grilled lamb chops with rosemary and garlic ($14.95/$24.95) or a deeply satisfying Castilian-style oxtail stew ($21.50). Paella a la Valenciana ($36) looks like the cover of a travel brochure, with its mosaic of pink shrimp, mussels, clams, lemon wedges and strips of red peppers. The larger dishes, such as the Catalan seafood stew ($21.50), easily serve two, and the paella is enough for four by the time you add a few of the tapas, generous even for appetizers.
Many newer places can also take a cue from Zarzuela on the service. Waiters carefully monitor the pace, pay attention to diners’ body language and change out the plates when needed. It’s clear these are veterans, and many have been at Zarzuela for years.
It makes for a very personal feel. On just about every evening, Debbane is at the host stand directing the dining room and Gasco is in the kitchen, as he’s been since the restaurant opened.
The eight desserts (all $5.95), created by Gasco, are also excellent, especially the creamy caramel Catalan, a silken creme brulee and a rolled chocolate mousse sponge cake soaked in espresso and brandy.
It ends the evening the way it started — on a comfortable, satisfying note.