Braised Veal Shanks With Wild Mushroom Ragout

Serves 4 This Chronicle archive recipe is from Ruggero Gadaldi, executive chef of Beretta and Delarosa. Have your butcher cut and tie the shanks for you. Both the shanks and ragout can be made one day ahead. Let the shanks and the mushroom ragout cool, then cover and refrigerate. To serve, reheat the shanks in a 350-degree oven for about 30 minutes, until just heated through, adding the mushroom ragout for the final 10 minutes. The veal 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 whole veal shanks (about 4 pounds total), cut nearly through at several intervals and tied back together with string 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 cup dry white wine 9 small red potatoes, halved 18 cipollini onions, or pearl onions 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary 1 cup veal or chicken stock Mushroom ragout 1½ pounds fresh wild mushrooms, preferably a mixture of chanterelles, black trumpets and lobster mushrooms 1 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons chopped garlic ½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste ¼ teaspoon white pepper, plus more to taste 1 cup dry white wine ¼ cup chopped Italian parsley Rosemary and sage sprigs for garnish

To prepare the veal: Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Heat the butter and olive oil in a large Dutch oven over high heat. Add the veal shanks and sear them on all sides until golden brown, turning from time to time. This should take about 10 minutes. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Add the wine, cover tightly, and roast for 1 hour and 15 minutes, basting with pan juices every 15 minutes.

Season the potatoes with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Add the potatoes, onions, sage, rosemary and stock to the veal. Cover, return to the oven and roast for 45 minutes. Check the veal for fork tenderness. If needed, cover and return to the oven for 15 minutes longer.

To prepare the mushroom ragout: Wipe the mushrooms clean with a soft damp cloth, then rinse them for a few seconds in a bowl of cool water. Dry them thoroughly on paper towels. Trim the stems and cut the caps into thick slices.

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic, stir, then immediately add the mushrooms. Cook for 2 minutes. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon white pepper. Add the wine and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes, until most of the liquid has evaporated. Remove from heat. Taste, and add more salt and pepper, if desired. Set aside until serving time.

Remove 1 cup of the cooking liquid from the veal and add it to the mushrooms, then stir in the parsley.

To serve: Transfer the shanks to a heated serving platter; remove the strings. Surround the shanks with the braised onions and potatoes. Top with the mushroom ragout. Garnish with rosemary and sage.