A delicious spring fling
Californians who have lived here longer than my dozen years say it’s the greenest spring they can remember. March’s riotous profusion seems more abundant, more verdant, than in years past. Maybe it only feels that way because after a rainy and bleak winter we’re all ready for spring, both on the spiritual level — new beginnings! hope! — and the gastronomic one, falling all over the first spears of asparagus at the market.
Don’t worry, there’s time for all that — for artichokes and favas and the first thumb-size sweet strawberries. But let’s not jump the gun; in a matter of weeks all of those things will be at their peak and at lower prices. In the meantime, to quell the springy itch, bake this savory pie, stuffed with a filling as green as Bernal Hill.
An olive oil and egg-enriched dough encases a mixture of wilted greens, ricotta, fontina and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheeses. It’s simple enough to bake on a weeknight (especially if you do a few of the steps in advance), and sturdy enough to pack for lunch the next day. And vegetarian, to boot.
In Italy, pies like this one are traditionally baked in spring, often for Easter, called torta pasqualina (“Pasqua” is Easter in Italian) or erbazzone, and served as a snack or part of a multicourse meal. I don’t know about your household, but mine is not a multicourse one — rest assured, a slice of this pie can be the centerpiece of a (single-course) meal. The specific combination of greens in the filling is up to you: I like Swiss chard and spinach, though you could add some beet greens or kale to the mix.
After experimenting with a yeasted dough, phyllo and puff pastry, I settled on a simple stir-together dough. Quicker to make and easier to roll, it crisps beautifully in the oven. I like to make dough by hand and hate cleaning my food processor, but if you’re the opposite, the dough can also be made in the machine.
Three types of cheese may seem like overkill, but each has its purpose. Ricotta contributes creaminess, fontina gives the filling an ooziness and Parmigiano-Reggiano, the MVP of the cheese drawer, lends nuttiness. They band together with the greens to create a juicy filling for a pie that’s just right for shoulder season, something good to eat while we wait for the full bounty of spring.