Kebabery keeps it casual in Oakland

For almost 20 years, Russell Moore educated himself in the ways of Northern California’s hyper-local ethos at Berkeley’s Chez Panisse, and for the past decade, the chef has been devoted to open-flame cookery at his Oakland fine-dining restaurant, Camino.

With the Kebabery, his new counter-service spot set to open in the coming weeks, Moore is embracing the opportunity to loosen the reins.

“Sometimes people have the impression of Camino being precious,” says Moore of his Grand Avenue restaurant, which is mindful to the point of obsession: Sourcing and butchering whole animals, using only traceable spirits in its bar program, and shifting to a no-tipping system in order to pay all of its staff a living wage. While these practices are admirable and have resulted in stellar reviews, it’s understandable how the restaurant has earned a precious reputation.

For years, Moore and his crew have been experimenting at themed Monday-night dinners, which have included globe-trotting culinary themes from paella and pozole to roasted crab and kebabs.

It was those kebab dinners that inspired what would become the Kebabery. The specials first came about as a lark to use up extra lamb, and then as an excuse to experiment with flat-bread recipes.

In recent months, there has been increased discussion in the food world and beyond about culinary appropriation. For Moore, who grew up in Southern California, the son of a Korean mother and Caucasian father, he is well aware of concerns and potential pitfalls regarding chefs adopting and adapting other cultures’ foodways. Yet despite the name, Moore maintains that the food is meant to be nontraditional and is influenced by everything from Indian kofta to Japanese yakitori.

“We’re calling (the food) kebabs because it’s easier to describe than ‘we’re grilling meats on sticks,’ ” Moore says.

While Moore, along with his wife, Allison Hopelain, and Camino manager Brian Crookes weren’t necessarily planning on adding a fast-casual restaurant to their portfolio, when a space in Oakland’s Longfellow neighborhood became available (following the closure of the shortlived Salsipuedes), it was an opportunity too good to pass up.

“That neighborhood needs a fun, nice place,” says Moore.

Not much has been done to change the footprint of the 1,100square-foot space, Moore says. But there are still plenty of touches that are pure Camino. Moore partnered with furniture-production students at California College of the Arts to fabricate the handmade oak and iron chairs. Blacksmith Jon Serregati, who built the grills and lighting fixtures at Camino, has also contributed chandeliers for the Kebabery.

Moore, Hopelain and Crookes will continue to spend the majority of their time at Camino, as the menu and day-to-day operations of the Kebabery will be left to longtime Camino cook Traci Matsumoto.

“We’re just trying to take ingredients and see what grills really well and what it pairs with,” says Moore of accompaniments, like a nontraditional sauerkraut salad, which the chef has brought over from Camino.

“If you're like me and born eating kimchi, pickled cabbage tastes really good on grilled meat,” Moore says.