Dining scene’s new wave
When Andrea Nguyen, noted Asian culinary expert and cookbook author, left Los Angeles for Santa Cruz County 19 years ago, she was surprised to encounter a rather dispirited food scene.
Despite local farmers’ markets carrying the most vibrant of produce, the dining landscape was lackluster, dominated by the frozen, the fried and far too many flabby clam chowders.
But thankfully, times have changed — in the most delicious of ways.
Nguyen, who moved to Santa Cruz in 1998 when her husband, Rory O’Brien, became a political science professor at Cabrillo College in Aptos, has witnessed this beach town grow into a true dining destination. New restaurants and purveyors have invigorated the area, thanks in part, she believes, to chef Kendra Baker opening the artisan Penny Ice Creamery in 2010.
“She brought a higher caliber of food and service to this town, which needed enlightening and enlivening,’’ says Nguyen, 48. “I think she inspired more restaurateurs to come to town. There’s a new generation now breathing fresh air into what was once a tired food scene.’’
Nguyen took us on a tour, proudly showing off five new — and one not so new — places that showcase the breadth of dining now here. The Vietnam native may have authored five Asian cuisine cookbooks, including her latest that debuted in February, “The Pho Cookbook” (Ten Speed Press). But she jokingly admits even she cannot live on Asian food alone. Bay Area freelance writer Carolyn Jung blogs at FoodGal.com and is the author of the “San Francisco Chef ’s Table.’’ Email: food@sfchronicle.com