Spring is in bloom at local farmers’ markets. Find out where to shop, plus what to make.
Spring has arrived in force at Bay Area farmers’ markets.
Strawberries
According to my mother, my love of strawberries dates back to when my grandfather sneaked me a taste of his strawberry milkshake when I was just a year old. 40 years later, I’ll still eat the fruit any way I can get it — fresh, shortcakes, pies, jams. But truth be told, my favorite way to enjoy strawberries is to macerate them with a bit of sugar (I use roughly 1 tablespoon per pint of strawberries) and a pinch of salt for about 20 minutes. It not only allows that bright, start-of-the-season strawberry flavor to positively sing, but it makes for a versatile topping that you can put on anything, from pound cake to ice cream. Since there’s still an abundance of winter citrus at the market, I experimented with serving macerated berries with mint-infused Meyer lemon granita. Strawberries will run through the summer into early fall. The folks at Swanton Berry Farm in Davenport, just north of Santa Cruz, say that April and May are the best time for the berries. To make the granita: Make a simple syrup by combining 1 cup of
sugar and ½ cup of water in a medium saucepan over medium heat. When the sugar is dissolved, remove from heat, let cool slightly, and add 1¼ cups Meyer lemon juice, 1 tablespoon Meyer lemon zest, ¼ cup of finely chopped fresh mint leaves and 2 tablespoons of lemon-flavored vodka. Pour the mixture into a 9-by-13-inch pan and place in the freezer, scraping the mixture with a fork every 45 minutes or so, until frozen and grainy.
Hass avocados
While you can find avocados in supermarkets year-round (most of which are imported from Mexico), now is prime time for fresh Hass avocados at farmers’ markets. According to Will Brokaw of Brokaw Ranch — which you’ll find Tuesday and Saturday at both the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market and Berkeley Farmers’ Market — expect Hass avocados to continue through mid-August. To ensure a steady supply of avocados throughout the year, Brokaw also grows a number of other varieties, including Gem, Reed, Bacon and Fuerte. Brokaw enjoys his avocados in a simple guacamole that’s not over-smashed. That’s also my favorite way, but in a recent batch of cookbooks sent my way, several had recipes for chocolate avocado puddings or mousses, a dairy-free dessert that has gained popularity thanks to the rise of Paleo and ketogenic diets. I’m skeptical of most fad diet dishes, but after making this version, I’m a convert. To make the chocolate avocado pudding: Bring a medium pot of water to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Place a medium bowl filled with ½ cup of semisweet chocolate chips over the water bath and stir with a rubber spatula until melted and smooth. Pit and peel 4 large, very ripe avocados (about 3 cups worth). Place the avocados and melted chocolate in a food processor, with ½ cup agave nectar, 2 teaspoons of vanilla extract, ½ teaspoon of ground cinnamon, a pinch or two of ancho chile powder and a pinch of kosher salt. Process until smooth. If the mixture is too thick, thin it out with a splash of almond milk. Spoon into serving bowls and garnish with cocoa nibs and chopped toasted almonds.
Asparagus
Unlike the sluggish arrival of other spring produce, these babies arrived at markets in late February, about two weeks earlier than usual. At home, I often add sauteed sliced asparagus to pasta dishes (see accompanying spaghetti recipe) or drizzle whole spears with olive oil, kosher salt and pepper and roast in a 400 degree oven until tender, then add a little fresh lemon juice and zest on top. Asparagus, which should be around through June, are also fantastic battered, deep fried and served with a tangy lemon dipping sauce.
Artichokes
I spied my first artichokes of the season about a month back at Swanton Berry Farm’s Saturday Ferry Plaza stand, and over the past couple of weeks, even more vendors have started offering these prickly beauties. For a simple weeknight side dish, remove the stems and trim the top ½-inch of 4 artichokes, being sure to remove all the sharp tips. Use a spoon to scrape out the chokes. Place the artichokes in a Dutch oven, drizzle the center and the leaves of each artichoke with a mixture of ¼ cup olive oil, 3 teaspoons minced garlic, kosher salt and black pepper. Add 1 cup of water to the Dutch oven, cover and bake at 400 degrees until the leaves pull away easily, about 35 minutes. If you want a more challenging recipe, try this showstopping artichoke dish from Michelinstarred Russian Hill restaurant Lord Stanley.