San Francisco Chronicle

Explore the 11th and North Marais

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DINE

1 Cafe Oberkampf: This neighborho­od cafe serves excellent coffee from a rotating list of French roasters. The all-day brunch menu includes avocado toast and shakshuka — eggs baked in tomato sauce with peppers, onions, spices and harissa. 8:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday and Friday; 9:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday, 3 Rue Neuve Popincourt, Paris.

2 Folks and Sparrows: After a decade in Brooklyn, Franck Alexandre teamed up with Quentin Arsac to open a cafe that specialize­s in coffee and sandwiches — on a recent visit, Prince de Paris artisanal ham, pickles, purple mustard and piment d’Espelette vinegar. Specialty condiments are available for purchase in the handmade wood display in front. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday, 14 Rue Saint-Sebastien, Paris; 33-9-8145-90-99. 3 Au Passage: Thanks to the Anthony Bourdain bump, this tiny restaurant has been discovered, but don’t let that dissuade you. Small, reasonably priced plates highlight seasonal cuisine with surprising twists: smoked mackerel with shaved asparagus, kiwi and nigella seeds. If the tables are full, grab a spot at the bar or the communal table. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. 1 bis Passage de Saint-Sebastien, Paris; 33-1-43-55-07-52

DRINK

4 Little Red Door: A craft cocktail bar with a speakeasy vibe. Order your drink from a book of pictures, then grab a spot at the bar and watch the bartenders reviving the art of throwing cocktails (an old method for mixing drinks). 7 p.m.-1:30 a.m. Tuesday and Wednesday; until 2 am.. Thursday-Saturday. 60 Rue Charlot, Paris; 33-1-42-71-19-32

5 La Fine Mousse: The French are catching up with the craft beer revolution and La Fine Mousse, a bar in the 11th, has been leading the way, collaborat­ing with American brewers on beers such as Brasserie du Grand Paris’ Port Doree, an American amber ale. A restaurant across the street focuses on pairing beer and food. 5 p.m.-2 a.m. daily. 6 Avenue Jean Aicard, Paris; 33-1-48-06-40-94

SHOP

6 Merci: Multiple levels to covet: men’s and women’s clothing, housewares, lighting and a large section dedicated to design. If you need a break, there’s a coffee shop with used-book store, cafe or restaurant with garden view downstairs. 10 a.m.-7:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday. 111 Boulevard Beaumarcha­is, Paris; 33-1-42-77-00-33

7 Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse: Follow your nose to this chocolate maker’s factory, tucked into a courtyard off Rue de la Roquette. The shop is beautifull­y decorated — wood, brass, glass and, of course, chocolate. Windows offer views into the factory. If you’re looking for something special, white-jacketed saleswomen are on hand to describe the chocolates and offer tastes. 10:30 a.m.-7 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. 40 Rue de la Roquette, Paris; 33-1-48-05-82-86

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