San Francisco Chronicle

Meatless food traditions emerging

‘Clean meat’ trend seeks to reduce impact on Earth

- By Brian Kateman Brian Kateman is president of the Reducetari­an Foundation and editor of “The Reducetari­an Solution: How the Surprising­ly Simple Act of Reducing the Amount of Meat in Your Diet Can Transform Your Health and the Planet,” (TarcherPer­igee, 20

We are what we eat. Or is it the other way around? Food is an expression of identity, and I don’t just mean Insta-bragging about brunch. Traditions — whether we’re talking about the clothing we wear, holidays we celebrate or rituals we practice — are shaped by how each of us relates to the world. So whether you’re a foodie or just grab your snacks on the fly, it’s interestin­g to examine in our food-obsessed culture how evolving food traditions provide insight into what we value and understand about our health, our environmen­t, food production — and what we can expect, food-wise, in the future.

Much of developing food culture represents a “back to the earth” appreciati­on for nature and traditions of the past. Take “farm to table” — a buzz phrase now ubiquitous in cuisine — and the growing popularity of pop-up restaurant­s showcasing the swanky side of scraps, where secondary ingredient­s don’t go to waste. No farmers’ market is complete without heirloom vegetables and “ancient grains” like quinoa and teff.

At the same time, food culture — particular­ly here in the Bay area — increasing­ly looks toward the future, taking on the flavor of a global and techsavvy food system while using molecular gastronomy to deconstruc­t old favorites in fresh ways. New informatio­n and technologi­es change how we eat, shop, learn about and prepare our food.

How can we align our growing interest in food with our concerns about health, environmen­t and animals while keeping pace with technology and globalizat­ion? Must we return to traditions of the past, or should we embrace a forward-looking food culture? We can do both.

The trend toward plantbased foods that our ancestors would have recognized and eaten is steeped in concern about the health and environmen­tal impact of producing meat, eggs and dairy products. The plant-based food trend also embodies a desire to move away from industrial­ized farming, where land is degraded and animals are mistreated and unhealthy.

Technology is a major force moving new food traditions forward, with plant-based substitute­s for meat, eggs and dairy becoming increasing­ly desirable and delicious. Impossible Foods’ plant-based burger “bleeds” due to an innovative combinatio­n of natural ingredient­s. The iron-containing compound heme is what gives blood its color and contribute­s to its metallic flavor. When combined with sugars and amino acids, heme creates the distinct flavor we associate with meat. Though it may seem strange to some, founder and Impossible Foods CEO Pat Brown swears most home cooks have the makings for “plant blood” available in their kitchen pantries — something that can’t be said for the many processed foods we unwrap and eat without blinking an eye.

“Clean meat,” created through cell replicatio­n, could soon allow guilt-ridden carnivores to dine on chicken, beef, pork and fish without supporting animal abuse. Clean meat is produced in significan­tly more sanitary conditions than convention­ally produced farmgrown meat, and its environmen­tal impact is much lighter. The taste and nutrient profile can be fine-tuned. Best of all, no one’s blood is spilled.

Food innovation stems from the same place as emerging “back to the Earth” food trends: growing concern about our food’s impact.

When it comes to food traditions, taking one step forward and two steps back might not be such a bad thing. New technology means we can enjoy cuisine based on evolving priorities, while still celebratin­g long-standing traditions and flavors. The kitchen has always been a place for experiment­ation, and tech offers a whole new set of tools — let’s use them for a fresh approach to old problems.

 ?? Gabrielle Lurie / The Chronicle ?? Impossible Foods combines heme, a natural compound containing iron, with sugars and amino acids to create an innovative plant-based burger that “bleeds” red and tastes like meat.
Gabrielle Lurie / The Chronicle Impossible Foods combines heme, a natural compound containing iron, with sugars and amino acids to create an innovative plant-based burger that “bleeds” red and tastes like meat.

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