Taking a Modernist approach to socializing.

The Modernist: Yes, it’s private, but S.F. hideaway is more ‘Cheers’ than chichi

Walking down Steuart Street, you’ll probably miss the unmarked door to the Modernist, the year-old social dining club that’s remained as mysterious and below the radar as its entryway. The “experiment in microgastronomy and making friends,” as founder Albert Chen calls it, hasn’t initiated any major membership campaigns, hired a public relations consultant or otherwise launched itself with a big splash, in contrast to other social clubs like the international Soho House or San Francisco’s Battery club.

Instead, Chen and his original 100 founding members have been opening the doors to their friends on Wednesday nights for a weekly Good People Happy Hour, where prospects can experience the club’s intricately prepared cocktails and dishes while mixing with other “good people” — once they find the place, that is.

“When we opened and then set out to expand our membership, we weren’t looking for big names or people that worked in any specific field,” says Chen, who is also the founder and owner of 5A5 Steak Lounge and pastry company Cako. “We look for people who are social, who don’t have a lot of attitude, people who are passionate about dining experiences and who will fit in with the club and other members.”

Chen and his partners Steve Chen (no relation), bar director and partner Carlo Splendorini, operating partner John Chu and Modernist executive chef and partner Allen Chen like to compare the mood of the club to the bar on the sitcom “Cheers.” While the $2,000-a-year membership fee might be steep for Norm or Cliff looking for lager on tap (with half the membership going back to food and beverage purchases), it’s less than the $2,400 a year fee at the Battery or the $2,400 initiation fee (plus $200 monthly dues) at Villa Taverna.

Since there’s no formal new member committee or rigorous application process for prospective Modernist members, the happy hours are the closest thing the club has to an interview process.

“We also make sure on these ‘Good People Happy Hours’ that we go around and introduce people to each other,” Chen says. “If you don’t ‘know everybody’s name’ at the beginning of the night, hopefully you’ll be closer by the end.”

On the evening of March 22, Modernist hosted a happy hour with the theme “Cup of Love.” Like every Wednesday, this one was hosted by a pair of members: Branded Spirits chief of staff Nicholas Chen and Philz Coffee CEO Jacob Jaber. Throughout the night, more than 80 members, friends and club prospects came to eat, imbibe and enjoy one another’s company. The Chronicle is the first media outlet Modernist has allowed into one of these Wednesday nights. Here’s how the evening unfolded.

ARRIVAL, 7:30 P.M.

Every Good People Happy Hour begins with the cocktail menu, conceived by bar director and partner Carlo Splendorini (formerly of Michael Mina restaurant group). In honor of the hosts, this night there is Jacob’s Lovely ol’ Brew with Kikori whiskey, Philz Coffee Tesora blend, chocolate, honey and truffle essence. Nick’s Majestic ride consisted of Majesté Cognac VSOP, Carpano sweet vermouth and aged balsamic. The lighter Cup of Modernist was made from Japanese whiskey, with jasmine tea, cinnamon and sesame. One of Splendorini’s specialties is creating cocktails within an egg-shaped block of ice that the drinker cracks in the glass in order to get to the good stuff.

“The secret is not to be afraid,” Splendorini says after a few nervous, failed attempts on my part. With a little more force from the wrist, the ice breaks, spilling the contents in a gush.

“I always get a man to break the ice for me,” jokes Lillian Phan, director of events at Julia Morgan Ballroom.

“Albert and I get along because we’re both in the people business,” Jaber says. “People think Philz is a coffee business, but it’s really about the people. Albert and Steve created an interesting community: Like attracts like, and everyone I’ve met here I like. There’s a diversity of intentions among the members — some want to network, some want to meet friends.”

Nicholas Chen lined up bottles of vodka, gin and rum made at his company’s distillery on Treasure Island for a tasting at the club’s front bar.

“Have you ever had bacon-flavored bourbon?” he asks a member, then pours a shot.

Real estate investor David Saxe, an ownermember at Modernist, was recruited by his friend Josh Reynolds, another owner-member.

“It’s a really nice group here,” Saxe says. “Seeing how not pretentious it was compared to other clubs, it was a no-brainer to join. Carlo creates drinks for me from memory that he knows I’ve liked.”

9 P.M.

Like the cocktails, the room has now been mixed with members and perspectives. As bites are passed, the partners make the rounds continuing to introduce people. Prospective member Kimberly Ritch, sipping her Cup of Modernist, says she’s “fascinated” by private clubs.

“You come sometimes looking for a family vibe,” she says. “The Battery can be pretty crazy at times, and it’s big. Here it’s more intimate, the partners seem to know everyone.”

Arash Keshmirian, a mobile game developer from Palo Alto, gets into a discussion with another member about work.

“I make video games about sheep avoiding extraterrestrial abduction,” Keshmirian says, before moving on to more serious topics, like the way the President Trump travel ban is affecting business in Silicon Valley.

Darnell Kemp, a former venture capitalist now “looking at a career change to virtual reality” is a first-time visitor to Modernist.

“I was attracted by the promise of good people,” he jokes.

NEARING DEPARTURE, 11 P.M.

Albert Chen says the happy hours “usually end around 11,” but things are still going full swing as a few of the members make their goodbyes. Lines at the bar are still deep, but many have adjourned to tables for food.

Looking around the packed space, Chen says that the partners are considering opening additional locations for Modernist in San Francisco.

“I could picture opening locations in unexpected neighborhoods, really make Modernist into a type of neighborhood bar where there would be clubs all over the city.”

For now, though, Chen is excited by the expanding membership and continuing to bring “good people” together on Wednesday nights. He knows that if they grow too quickly, that feeling of a place where “everybody knows your name” could be lost.

Cheers!