Explore the town
MORNING
Base yourself at the 94-room Grand Hotel Tremezzo — Lake Como, a villa that could have been a sibling to the Grand Budapest Hotel, conveniently located about midway on the banks of the lake with stunning views of Bellagio, across the water. The hotel itself offers plenty of diversions such as on-site wine tastings and cooking lessons, as well as painting classes and excursions in its private “water limo.” Hop on the ferry for the 15-minute ride across the lake to Bellagio, a pristine village of narrow, cobbled streets, cafes and shops that sell fancy olive oil and limoncello. Get a scoop or two of gelato from Excelsior Splendide, a kiosk just off the ferry dock, and be sure to order pinoli, or pine nut, if they have it, and then set about strolling the village.
MIDDAY
Grab a table at 98-year-old Silvio, a restaurant just out of the center of Bellagio, that serves local specialties. Tuck into a bowl of spaghetti, laced with a thick ragu of tomatoes, and locally caught pike, or try toc, a creamy fireplace-cooked polenta dish and Bellagio specialty. After lunch, hop on the ferry to the town of Lenno across the lake. From there, get a water taxi to the only-accessible-by-boat Villa del Balbianello, an eye-pleasing 18th century property with a Hollywood pedigree, in that scenes from “Star Wars: Attack of the Clones,” “Casino Royale” and “A Month by the Lake” were all shot here. Take a tour of the villa, last home to eccentric explorer Count Guido Monzino who added several secret doors and passageways in fear that left-wing terrorists would abduct him and hold him for ransom.
AFTERNOON
On your way back up the coast — take bus C10 or consider strolling — stop by Villa Belmonte in the town of Giulino de Mezzegra. Fans of World War II history and/or assassinations of dictators will want to pause at the cross outside the villa. Here marks the spot where, in 1945, Benito Mussolini was shot and killed while attempting to flee to Switzerland. Continue the villa-hopping tour — as one does in Lake Como — with a visit to Villa Carlotta in Tremezzina, a 17th century mansion that is home to an impressive art collection, including sculptures by Antonio Canova. The verdant botanical gardens surrounding the villa make for a peaceful way to end an afternoon of exploration.
EVENING
Hike up one of the stone staircases etched into the hills of Tremezzina. Eventually, you’ll come across Al Veluu, a hotel and restaurant with a terrace that offers stunning views of the lake. Starting at 7 p.m., order a glass of wine and nibble on Italian snacks. It’s time for aperitivo, a predinner tradition at bars and restaurants across Northern Italy where the purchase of a drink allows visitors access to a trove of Italian cheeses, cured meats and olives. Back at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, take a seat at the recently rebooted in-house wine bar and restaurant, L’Escale. Sip some vino (from the 350-bottle list) and indulge in spinach gnocchi with sea urchin, monkfish osso buco, and softshell crab in a black sepia sauce. Order a nightcap of limoncello and toast to a fine day on the lake.