Nopalito’s Birria Al Res
Serves 8 to 10
Gonzalo Guzman’s version of birria is made with beef short ribs, though it will work with the more traditional goat or lamb as well. Several components are at play in this recipe, which is adapted from Guzman’s recently released cookbook, “Nopalito: A Mexican Kitchen” (Ten Speed Press; $30), but you can streamline things by making the adobo several days ahead. You’ll need to start the birria a day before you plan to serve it.
Adobo
8 cloves garlic
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
2 teaspoons whole cloves
1½ teaspoons ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons dried thyme
1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons dried oregano
7 bay leaves
3 tablespoons sesame seeds
22 dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
1 cup dark Mexican beer, such as Negra Modelo
¼ cup white vinegar
Birria
8 pounds beef short ribs (about 6 large ribs)
Kosher salt as needed
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large banana leaf (optional)
½ medium white onion
6 cloves garlic
3 bay leaves
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
Salsa
8 cups (64 ounces) canned diced tomatoes and their juices
3 cloves garlic
18 dried cascabel chiles, stemmed and seeded
To serve
Warm corn tortillas
Chopped fresh cilantro
Diced red onions
Hot sauce (optional)
To make the adobo: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. On a parchment-lined baking sheet, combine the garlic, pepper- corns, cloves, ginger, cumin, thyme, oregano, bay leaves and sesame seeds. Bake until the sesame seeds are lightly browned (but not blackened) and the spices are lightly toasted and aromatic, about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a medium heatproof bowl, cover the chiles with boiling water; let sit until softened, about 30 minutes, and drain (reserve the soaking liquid).
Transfer the spices, drained chiles, beer, and vinegar to a blender and blend, adding enough of the reserved soaking liquid to form a smooth, thick paste.
To make the birria: Season the short ribs heavily with salt; let sit for 30 minutes.
Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown the meat in a single layer, working in batches as needed to avoid crowding the pot; cook, turning occasionally, until some of the fat is rendered and the meat is golden brown on all sides, then remove to a platter. Once all the ribs are seared, marinate the meat in half of the adobo (reserve the other half for the salsa) and let it rest in the refrigerator overnight.
The next day, preheat the oven to 325 degrees. If using the banana leaf, lay it across the bottom of a Dutch oven, then place the meat and marinade on top. Cut the onion half into four pieces and arrange the pieces over the meat along with the garlic, bay leaves and peppercorns. Add enough water to cover the meat by 1 inch. Fold the ends of the banana leaf over the meat to cover. Seal the Dutch oven with the lid and transfer to the oven. Cook until very tender, about 3 hours. Drain the meat, reserving the braising liquid. (If not serving immediately, you can refrigerate the liquid and meat until ready to serve, up to 2 days.)
To make the salsa: Raise the oven heat to 350 degrees. Place the diced tomatoes and garlic in a roasting pan and roast for 30 minutes. Remove and let cool slightly.
Meanwhile, heat a medium skillet over medium heat and add the cascabel chiles; cook, turning occasionally, until the chiles turn bright red and charred in places, 1 to 2 minutes total. Transfer the chiles, roasted tomatoes, garlic and the remaining half of the adobo to a blender, working in batches if needed, and blend until very smooth. To finish and serve: In a large pot, combine the salsa with half of the braising liquid, or more as needed to achieve a rich but still runny consistency; bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and let cook for 30 minutes. Cut the short ribs into large chunks (about 3 inches) and add the meat to the sauce and cook just long enough to warm the meat through. Taste and adjust the salt as necessary.
Serve the birria with warm tortillas, cilantro, onions and hot sauce, if desired.