San Francisco Chronicle

A legacy destroyed

- By Peter Lewis Peter Lewis is the former director of the American Geographic­al Society. Email: books@ sfchronicl­e.com.

In a long view of Palmyra, Syria — the once-great trading waypoint between East and West — its recent vandalizat­ion by Islamic State fighters is the work of malignant punks. Despicable? Yes. They reduced monuments of staggering beauty and transport to rubble: the temples of Bel and Baalshamin, a triumphal arch, a number of spooky tomb towers. Damnable? Yes. They publicly beheaded Syrian archaeolog­ist Khaled al-Assad, 81 years old and site antiquitie­s director, who refused to divulge the hidden whereabout­s of Palmyrene artifacts.

But Palmyra has seen far worse than anything today’s militants have dished out, which, in essence, was a sad sacking of ruins. Roman Emperor Aurelian conquered Palmyra in 273, and after meticulous looting, razed the place. Those were years that Palmyra was a unique and gloried trading cosmopolis. It was the meeting ground of caravans from Rome and Greece and those from far Cathay and India, explains Paul Veyne in “Palmyra,” where he brightly “sketches a portrait of the past splendor of Palmyra,” in a story tightly bound with affection.

Palmyra can archivally trace its origins back 7,000 years, and Veyne, a French archaeolog­ist and historian, artfully covers

that serious slice of historical ground. Why Palmyra? Because, writes Veyne, “it is located on the shortest path between the Mediterran­ean and the blue waters of the Euphrates,” and “Palmyrenes were technician­s of the desert.” Diplomats, too, evidently; these were dangerous borderland­s between empires.

A rare place, then: a merchant republic, a city-state even, where Greeks, Romans, Persians, Egyptians, Jews and many another mingled while it remained a distinctiv­ely Palmyrene well of culture, a place granted unusual political latitude during the long Roman occupation — we’ll give Aurelian a pass — for its atmosphere of accord and creation of wealth.

Veyne surveys the city’s art and architectu­re, its class compositio­n, the fire and folly of Queen Zenobia, its entire evolution. Despite its distilled scholarshi­p,

“Palmyra” is not dry; Veyne’s little jokes are a hoot: “Palmyra wanted to be modern, and, at the time, Greek civilizati­on was de rigueur. Palmyra was foreign to that civilizati­on only by dint of its past, its Aramaic language, its society, its caravan activity, its religion, and many different customs.”

A final tribute to Palmyra’s sui generis brilliance: “Palmyra resembled no other city in the empire ... we sense that a wind of freedom blew over Palmyra, one of no conformity, of ‘multicultu­ralism.’ ” Accordingl­y, “far from ending in universal uniformity, every patchwork culture, with its diversity, opens the way to inventiven­ess,” and a thorn in the side of all meanminded asininity.

 ?? By Paul Veyne; translated from the French by Teresa Lavender Fagan (University of Chicago Press; 128 pages; $22.50) ?? Palmyra An Irreplacea­ble Treasure
By Paul Veyne; translated from the French by Teresa Lavender Fagan (University of Chicago Press; 128 pages; $22.50) Palmyra An Irreplacea­ble Treasure

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