New dining allure at Monterey-scene trio
Three fixtures of Monterey County’s dining scene have introduced new looks, new menus and, in two cases, new names within the past six weeks.
The most recent, and perhaps most dramatic, debut is Holman Ranch Tavern, formerly Will’s Fargo Dining House & Saloon, in Carmel Valley. The owners of the historic 400-acre Holman Ranch and its eponymous winery bought Will’s Fargo in 2014, when it was primarily known as a steak house and bar, and closed it in April for renovations to the 1920s-era building.
The new tavern, which opened May 20, features a restored dining room, treeshaded patio, wine tasting, a full bar, shared plates and live music three nights a week; several areas can host special events. A familiar chef — Jerome Viel, who left Will’s Fargo in late 2015 to operate Carmel Valley Market — will provide the tavern’s gourmet comfort food, focused on pairings for local wine, craft beer and cocktails. Still, after its 58 years as a local watering hole, some longtime patrons may need time to get used to the new approach and noon to 7 p.m. hours.
16 W. Carmel Valley Road, Carmel Valley. (831) 659-2774, http://holmanranchtavern.com. Noon-7 p.m. daily.
Jacks Monterey, the new lobby bar and restaurant at Portola Hotel & Spa in Monterey, also has a different ambience and menu than its previous incarnation.
Following a $6 million renovation, Jacks Monterey now sits under the trees and atrium of the lobby’s lower level, with a locally inspired palette of weathered wood and hues drawn from the blue Pacific and pink and sage coastal flora. Chef Danny Abbruzzese’s “California cultural cuisine” showcases the region’s diverse ethnic culinary heritage and local food purveyors with shared plates such as Pajaro Pastures goat moussaka and halibut paupiette with Asian vegetables, rice, black beans and garlic sauce.
The revamped bar menu focuses on Monterey wines, craft beers from the onsite Peter B’s Brewpub and other area brewers, and premium cocktails by the resident mixologist, Tuyet. Her “group effort” drinks come in copper pineapples for two or four to share — larger groups get a larger pineapple with ladle.
2 Portola Plaza, Monterey. (831) 649-7830, www.portolahotel.com. Lunch 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m., dinner 4-11 p.m. daily.
Also recently remodeled, the Covey at Quail Lodge in Carmel now offers an evening bar and deck menu with “bites” such as duck fat fries, crispy Brussels sprouts and fried chicken with Belgian waffle. Wines, most from the region, are available in flights of 3ounce pours or by the glass or bottle. Reflecting Quail Lodge’s hosting of the annual Motorcycle Gathering, the new decor features motorcycles from the Moto Talbott Collection hanging on the wall and motorsports-themed art by local artist Molly McCall.
8205 Valley Greens Dr., Carmel. (831) 620-8860, www.quaillodge.com. Breakfast 6:30-11 a.m. daily, bar and deck menu 5-10 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday.