San Francisco Chronicle

Canoe sails back to Oahu after epic 3-year voyage

- By Jennifer Sinco Kelleher Jennifer Sinco Kelleher is an Associated Press writer.

HONOLULU — No modern navigation instrument­ation guided a Polynesian voyaging canoe as it followed the horizon during a threeyear journey around the globe.

About a dozen crew members for each leg of the voyage relied only on their understand­ing of nature’s cues — ocean swells, stars, wind, birds— and their own naau, or gut, to sail across about 40,000 nautical miles to 19 countries, spreading a message of malama honua: Caring for the Earth.

On Saturday, thousands welcomed doublehull­ed canoe Hokulea home to Hawaii when it entered a channel off the island Oahu and tied up to a floating dock with Diamond Head in the distance.

The voyage perpetuate­d the traditiona­l wayfinding that brought the first Polynesian­s several thousand miles to Hawaii hundreds of years ago. The trip also helped train a new generation of young navigators.

Hokulea means star of gladness. The canoe was built and launched in the 1970s, when there were no Polynesian navigators left. So the Voyaging Society looked beyond Polynesia to find one.

Mau Piailug, from a small island called Satawal in Micronesia, was among the last half-dozen people in the world to practice the art of traditiona­l navigation and agreed to guide Hokulea to Tahiti in 1976.

“Without him, our voyaging would never have taken place,” the Polynesian Voyaging Society said on the website for Hokulea. “Mau was the only traditiona­l navigator who was willing and able to reach beyond his culture to ours.”

The epic round-theworld voyage that started in 2014 shows how far Hokulea has gone since its first voyage from Hawaii to Tahiti in 1976.

Disaster befell another voyage in 1978 when the canoe capsized off the Hawaiian island of Molokai in a blinding storm. Eddie Aikau, a revered Hawaiian surfer and lifeguard on the crew, grabbed his surfboard and paddled for help, but was never seen again. The rest of the crew members were rescued.

Crew members hope the success of the latest journey will inspire other indigenous cultures to rediscover and revive traditions. Thompson said he also hopes indigenous cultures can help with solutions to modern-day problems such as climate change.

Native Hawaiian ancestors were not only skilled navigators but good stewards of the islands who farmed and fished sustainabl­y.

“They figured it out — how to live well on these islands,” Thompson said. “And I think that is the challenge of the time for planet earth and all of humanity.”

Hokulea will next embark on an eightmonth trip sailing throughout the Hawaiian islands.

 ?? Sam Eifling / Associated Press 2014 ?? The Hokulea sails off Honolulu in 2014 before departing on a journey of 40,000 nautical miles.
Sam Eifling / Associated Press 2014 The Hokulea sails off Honolulu in 2014 before departing on a journey of 40,000 nautical miles.

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