Sacramento
For much of Sacramento’s modern history, the important growth moved outward, into other suburbs and neighborhoods. But in the past two decades, the city — including the riverfront, Midtown and Old Town — has undergone an extreme makeover, blending the modern attractions with the rich state history that is Sacramento’s strength.
The fact that most of the improved scene is concentrated makes Amtrak’s Capitol Corridor service from the Bay Area even more attractive. Within minutes of arriving at the Sacramento Valley Station, visitors might be exploring the area’s cultural, historical and outdoorsy diversions, from the California State Railroad Museum and the Crocker Art Museum to the new downtown arena for the Kings and the Capitol building itself.
GO
Walk/Sacramento River Trail: The downtown Sacramento section of the Sacramento River Bike Trail sees mostly foot traffic, especially once the wooden planking of the dock area forces cyclists to dismount. If traveling south, the first major attraction you’ll come to is the old Central Pacific Passenger Station on the left, then the Central Pacific Railroad Freight Depot. Both are extensions of the California State Railroad Museum, with the latter building serving as the departure point for the Excursion Train, a steam-engine powered passenger train that leaves on the hour every hour on Saturdays and Sundays. www.sacramentoriver.org. California State Railroad Museum, 125 I St., (916) 3239280. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily. Adults $12; youth $6. www.csrmf.org
Explore/Sutter’s Fort: If you’re telling the story of Sacramento’s beginnings, you have to start with Sutter’s Fort. Swiss immigrant John Sutter established a fort and pioneer community near the confluence of the Sacramento and American rivers in 1839. Sutter was bent on turning this part of Mexico — he had become a Mexican citizen himself — into a center of industry. Ironically, it was the discovery of gold in 1848, that proved Sutter’s undoing. By 1849, Sutter could no longer pay his workers enough to keep them at the fort, and it was soon abandoned. What exists today is largely a re-creation, but it provides a fascinating glimpse into this pivotal time in California history. 2701 L St. (916) 445-4422. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily. $5 adults; $3 ages 6-17; children 5 and under free. www.suttersfort.org
See/Crocker Art Museum: Combining a grand old mansion with a sleek modern building, the Crocker Art Museum alone is worth a trip to Sacramento. The highlight of the museum is the Californian and American art collection on the third floor of the Teel Family Pavilion. Stretching from the Gold Rush era to the present, these works chronicle the state’s cultural and industrial emergence while celebrating its natural beauty, from Maynard Dixon’s renderings of Tuolumne Meadows’ meandering streams to Thomas Hill depictions of Yosemite Valley’s grandeur. Also filled with artwork, the Italianate Crocker Mansion, built in 1868, is fun to explore. The sleek, airy Crocker Cafe, on the modern side of the museum, has an enticing, though pricey, menu. 216 O St. (916) 808-7000. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Thursday. Adults $10; youth 7-17 $5; children 6 and under free. www.crockerartmuseum.org Tour/The State Capitol: The California State Capitol is just a few blocks north of the main downtown hub, but be sure to give yourself plenty of time to visit it. More than just the seat of power, the Capitol is a strikingly handsome building. A must-visit is the California Senate Chambers. This is where your elected officials earn their keep. The public area is perched high above the Senate floor, offering a commanding view of the proceedings. 1315 10th St. (916) 324-0333. 8 a.m.-5 p.m. MondayFriday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Free. www.capitolmuseum.ca.gov
EAT
The Federalist Public House: For something off the beaten track, head to the Federalist Public House, tucked away in an alley. It’s not actually a house but a series of interconnected shipping containers with a rooftop garden. The atmosphere is casual, with long beer-gardenstyle tables and the aroma of pizza wafting from the wood-fired oven. While you’re waiting for your food, play a round of bocce. 2009 Matsui Alley. (916) 6616134. Lunch and dinner daily. www.federalistpublichouse.com LowBrau: With its expansive patio in front and cutting-edge interior featuring thick wood tables, concrete walls and floor, it’s a perfect place for beer and sausage. The limited menu features six kinds, and all are superb — beautifully blistered and juicy. 1050 20th St.; (916) 706-2636. 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Monday-Friday; 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. www.lowbrausacramento.com
Ella: The menu is designed to please both politicians and visitors. At lunch there’s a very good fried chicken served with chile sauce and lemon wedges; or try the lamb Reuben sandwich served with sweet-potato chips. At dinner the menu expands to include such items as serrano ham-wrapped ahi tuna, seared scallops with charred tomato compote and guajillo chile-braised short-ribs with hominy grits and a mojo verde sauce. 1131 K St. (916) 443-3772. Open continuously for lunch and dinner Monday-Friday; Dinner only on Saturday. www.elladiningroomandbar.com
STAY
Delta King: The Delta King, a 285-footlong riverboat built in 1927 that once ferried passengers between Sacramento and San Francisco, is now a modern-day hotel and restaurant. Getting a drink at its bar is a great way to cap off your day in Sacramento, and overnighting in one of the staterooms is a truly unique experience. 1000 Front St. (916) 444-5464. Rooms from $150. www.deltaking.com
The Citizen: Historic charm meets modern luxury at this downtown Sacramento hotel overlooking the Cesar Chavez Plaza Park. A stay here means you’re only a 6minute walk from the California State Capitol and 1 mile from the Crocker Art Museum. Also of note is the hotel restaurant, the Grange, featuring a farm-to-fork menu, seasonal cocktails and local craft beers. 926 J St. (916) 447-2700. Rooms from $150 www.thecitizenhotel.com