After a century, Sierra paradise opens
For the first time in a century, the gates have been unlocked and the road open to Webber Lake, a higher Sierra gem. Starting Tuesday, you can set up a tent or park a small RV at a campsite near the lake’s shore.
When you round a bend and Webber Lake comes into view, many are astonished at its serene beauty. Some are shocked that they haven’t heard of it.
Azure-blue Webber Lake is at 8,600 feet between Sierra ridges, and fills a high mountain valley north of Truckee. The lake has a rich aquatic food chain and can provide fishing — including for flyfishers in prams and float tubes — for large trout. Kayaking and canoeing provides spectacular views across water and wilderness. Above the lake, Lacey Creek, adjoined by gorgeous Lacey Meadows with wildflowers and wildlife, feeds into Webber Lake, which then pours into the headwaters of the West Fork Little Truckee River.
It is about 25 miles north of Truckee, and for locals in Sierra County, it conjures up stories of the old days and perhaps Lola Montez. But mostly, it is beautiful.
Phil and Grace Starr, young-in-spirit 80-yearolds, were able to take in Webber Lake last weekend. Their son, Kevin, noted that when people fall in love with a place like Webber Lake, they are more apt to take care of it. “They have a vested interest,” he said.
More than 150 years ago, after the Gold Rush, Webber Lake and nearby Independence Lake were hugely popular destinations off historic Henness Pass Road for tourists in stagecoaches and miners on horses. Near the lake, the preserved three-story vintage-red hotel from the heyday is a testament to the old days.
The original owner of the hotel, David Webber, named Mount Lola in the Sierra range after the famous courtesan, Lola Montez, who stayed at the hotel, according to historical accounts.
In the past century, the lake became a private resort, off-limits to the public, and was stocked with trophy-size trout for guests. Five years ago, the Truckee Donner Land Trust purchased the property with plans to preserve the hotel, the meadows, wetlands and the headwaters of the Little Truckee River, and provide public access for camping, fishing, lowspeed boating and hiking.
Behind the scenes, the state Wildlife Conservation Board, the Sierra Nevada Conservancy and the state Department of Natural Services were the primary financial backers, contributing about $8 million, to buy the property.
Last week, after the winter’s high snow levels delayed the summer opener, the gate was unlocked for day use, and on Tuesday, the campground will open. A check this week with the new reservation system for campsites showed that dates for Labor Day weekend were still available.
From Truckee, the drive in starts northbound on Highway 89, and mile by mile, enters more remote country flanked by forestland. You eventually connect to historic Henness Pass Road, the same route stagecoaches took to Webber Lake.
The route turns to dirt and feeds along the lake to the old hotel and to nearby parking for day use.
From there, take your pick: The old hotel: Even if you know nothing of the past, the site of the old, rectangular, red, threestory hotel probably will spark your interest. When you start to envision the 1860s and Lola taking command of the place, the stagecoaches with decked-out tourists and grubby miners, it can feel like a time machine. Fish: Founder David Webber is often credited as the first entrepreneur (starting in 1860) to plant trout to jump-start fishing and bring in anglers. The lake has four species of trout: rainbow, brown, brook and Lahontan cutthroat. To do it right, you need something that floats, a small boat, kayak, canoe, pram or float tube. The lake’s food chain gives rise to high survival rates for plants and large fish. The short season and clear water (which can make the trout elusive) means many big ones survive from year to year. Flyfishing can be excellent at dusk using midge, mayfly or caddis patterns. The fishing is best when cold nights return in late summer. Boat: A small boat ramp provides access for small, trailered aluminum boats for fishing. A 5-mph speed limit keeps lake activity quiet. That makes it ideal for hand-powered boats, including kayaks, canoes, prams and float tubes. Hike: From the parking area, a trailhead leads south on the Lacey Valley Trail and climbs gently through a series of gorgeous meadows, Lower and then Upper Lacey Meadow. To the west, 8,093-foot Webber Peak towers overhead. The trail meanders roughly along Lacey Creek for 3.4 miles one-way to another trailhead and parking area along Meadow Lake Road. Most hike for a mile or two, then return when ready. I have flown over the entire area and can attest that this is one of the largest mountain meadows in the region with late-season wildflowers and good wildlife sightings.