San Francisco Chronicle

Wealth of lost treasure lies under coastal waters

- By Elena Becatoros Elena Becatoros is an Associated Press writer.

SARANDA, Albania — Descending beneath the waves, the cloudy first few feet quickly give way to clear waters and an astonishin­g sight — dozens, perhaps hundreds, of tightly packed ancient vases lie on the seabed, testament to some longforgot­ten trader’s unfortunat­e voyage more than 1,600 years ago.

A short boat ride away, the hulking frame of an Italian World War II ship appears through the gloom, soldiers’ personal items still scattered in the interior, its encrusted railings and propeller now home to growing colonies of fish and sponges.

Off the rugged shores of Albania, one of the world’s least explored underwater coastlines, lies a wealth of treasures: ancient amphorae — long, narrow terracotta vessels — that carried olive oil and wine along trade routes between north Africa and the Roman Empire, wrecks with hidden tales of heroism and treachery from two world wars, and spectacula­r rock formations and marine life.

“From what I’ve seen so far, you can’t swim more than a few meters without finding something that’s amazing, whether it’s on the cultural history side or the natural history side, here in Albania,” said Derek Smith, a coastal and maritime ecologist and research associate who has been working with the nonprofit RPM Nautical Foundation to explore the Albanian coastline for the past decade.

Now Albania’s National Coastline Agency is examining how best to study and protect its sunken attraction­s while opening them up to visitors in a nation that is virgin territory for the lucrative scuba diving industry.

“The idea of presenting the Albanian underwater heritage is a new idea for the country, because so far there is very little known about the rich history of the Albanian coastline, and in particular the shipwrecks,” said agency head Auron Tare, who has been involved for the past 12 years with RPM Nautical Foundation’s underwater research. “I believe the time has come now that we should present to the world the wealth of this heritage that we have in our waters.”

Once more isolated than even North Korea, Albania has gradually opened up to internatio­nal tourism and shrugged off its former image as a hermit state that briefly turned into lawless bandit territory in the late 1990s. But coastal land developmen­t has been burgeoning in an often anarchic fashion, and there are fears the more accessible wrecks could be plundered unless adequate protection­s are put into place.

Legislatio­n is expected to be passed soon to protect the country’s underwater heritage while also granting some access to visitors.

Neighborin­g Greece, to Albania’s south, has struggled with balancing tourism with protecting its ancient artifacts. Greece was so fearful of losing its underwater antiquitie­s it banned diving outright in all but a handful of places. Even today, diving is forbidden on any wreck — ship or plane — built more than 50 years ago, regardless of when it sank.

Albania sits at a strategic point at the entrance of the Adriatic Sea and along ancient trade routes from Italy to the Balkan peninsula. Much more remains to be explored.

 ?? Geo Delveroudi­s / Associated Press ?? Marine life grows on ancient North African jars at the site of a fourth century shipwreck.
Geo Delveroudi­s / Associated Press Marine life grows on ancient North African jars at the site of a fourth century shipwreck.

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