Recommended Trip by The Press
While a small number of Napa Valley producers make Syrah (look for Lagier Meredith, Keplinger and Favia), there’s far more of it planted and vinified in Sonoma County. Some wineries make just one Syrah wine (including, from this list, Unti, which grows it on the estate), but others are full-on Syrah specialists, like Donelan, which makes six Syrahs, including four single-vineyard expressions. Taste through enough of them, and you’ll begin to get a feel for the full rainbow of possibilities that this complex, misunderstood grape can offer — from Two Shepherds’ delicate takes to Novy’s more exuberant versions.
DONELAN FAMILY WINES
Donelan is a dedicated Syrah house, with half a dozen single-vineyard expressions. Winemaker Joe Nielsen is a master of the grape. Pay attention to the seductive Obsidian Vineyard, Donelan’s estate, and the Kobler Family Vineyard, a co-fermentation with Viognier. 3352 Coffey Lane, Santa Rosa
SIDURI/NOVY WINES
Founded by Adam Lee and Dianna Novy Lee in 1994, Novy is the sister label of Siduri Wines. Where Siduri focuses on Pinot Noir, Novy is all about Syrah, sourcing fruit not only from Sonoma County but also from beautiful Santa Lucia Highlands sites like the Garys’ and Pisoni vineyards. 241 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg
TWO SHEPHERDS WINE
The passion here is for Rhône-style wines, not only Syrah but also Grenache, Mourvedre, Roussanne and more. This is not your typical Sonoma County fruit bomb: The Two Shepherds wines are funky, austere, lean. “People ask us, ‘Where’s your big red?’ ” says winemaker William Allen. “And I tell them it’s a 12.3% Carignan.” 7763 Bell Road, Windsor
UNTI VINEYARDS
Unti is known for its southern Italian-style wines, but it considers itself a proponent of all Mediterranean grape varieties. Accordingly, there’s also a serious southern French influence at this all-estate Dry Creek winery. Unti’s juicy, olive- and licorice-tinged Syrah will transport you to the Rhône Valley. 4202 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg
WIND GAP WINES
Inside Sebastopol’s funky Barlow complex, the Wind Gap tasting room is a fun place to try the winery’s elegant, savory single-vineyard Syrahs from the Sonoma Coast. Look, too, for winemaker Pax Mahle’s Syrahs under his recently revived Pax label. 6780 McKinley St., #170, Sebastopol