Celebrating the old in the new

I have a special fondness for any restaurant like Roosevelt Tamale Parlor, with a history that stretches back nearly a century.

To survive even a decade is notable; to adapt to the massive changes in our culture over the past three or four decades is astounding.

It’s a delicate balance to come into the 21st century and to honor the past, especially in an environment where what’s new is honored and what’s been around for a while is often discarded.

That’s why when I went to Scribe Winery in Sonoma last week, I was buoyed to see that brothers Adam and Andrew Mariani had lovingly restored the house on their vineyard, leaving evidence of remodels that have taken place over the past century: The original stained glass in the entrance hall; the newspapers that covered the walls in 1951 (a twobedroom apartment in the Marina rented for $60); and a patch of the bright orange and yellow floral wallpaper dating from the 1970s.

The brothers, still in their 30s, are to be commended for constantly relating back to their history not only on the property but in their production of the Sylvaner grape, among others.

In that same regard, Aaron Presbrey and Barry Moore are to be commended for again taking over the Roosevelt Tamale Parlor and bringing back its Mexican heritage, even if it took them a while to get there.

The restaurant has changed hands several times over the decades, and when Presbrey and Moore took it over in 2012, they pared the 150-item menu, started using more seasonal products and changed the name to the Roosevelt. They upgraded the interior but left the landmark neon sign.

They closed three years later, and for a year they rented the space for pop-ups. In November, the partners reopened the place as Roosevelt Sip ‘n’ Eat, featuring American food such as meat loaf, and forgoing much of the Mexican menu for American comfort food.

Regulars complained, so now the Mexican food is again front and center, including the namesake tamale ($10) with a choice of fillings and the signature rich chile gravy, and the stacked tostada ($18) with chile Colorado, refried beans, shredded lettuce and a fried egg.

“It’s going well, although I admit things haven’t picked up quite as much as I thought it would,” said Presbrey, “but every day it’s building back to what it was.”

The food may not be the best Mexican you’ll find, but it’s satisfying and reasonably priced, whether it’s a bracing posole ($16) with chunks of meat and loads of chewy hominy, or chicken fajitas ($17) with guacamole and soft flour tortillas.

It makes for a place that continues to honor its past, but gently reinvented for today’s diners.

2817 24th St., San Francisco; (415) 824-2600 or rooseveltsipneat.com. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Lunch/brunch Friday-Sunday.