San Francisco Chronicle

Obituary: Liliane Bettencour­t, L’Oréal cosmetics heiress

- By Robert D. McFadden Robert D. Mcfadden is a New York Times writer.

Liliane Bettencour­t, the French heiress to the L’Oréal cosmetics fortune and a family legacy of fascist associatio­ns, whose final years were vexed by allegation­s that she had fallen under the sway of a younger man and given him $1.4 billion, died Wednesday at her home in the Paris suburb Neuilly-surSeine. She was 94.

Her death was confirmed by Jean-Paul Agon, chairman and chief executive of L’Oréal Group, on the company’s website.

L’affaire Bettencour­t had captivated France since 2007, when a daughter’s lawsuit charged that Mrs. Bettencour­t, ranked as the richest woman in the world, had been bamboozled by a society photograph­er 25 years her junior for cash, annuities, fine art and, it seemed, an island in the Seychelles. The complaint challenged her mother’s competency and led to criminal charges against the man.

Accused of “abus de faiblesse,” or exploiting the old woman’s frailty, the photograph­er, François-Marie Banier, was bombarded at a trial in early 2015 by the testimony of maids, butlers, doctors and others who called him the dominating manipulato­r of an overmedica­ted, disoriente­d woman.

Deaf and afflicted with dementia, Mrs. Bettencour­t did not attend the trial. But her daughter and court-appointed guardian, Françoise Bettencour­t-Meyers, told the court in the southweste­rn city of Bordeaux: “The strategy of Mr. Banier was not just to divide and conquer. It was to break and conquer. To break our family. It was programmed destructio­n.”

Banier vehemently denied the daughter’s accusation­s. In May 2015, the court convicted Banier of abuse and money laundering and sentenced him to three years in prison, of which six months were suspended. He was also ordered to pay 158 million euros, or $173 million, in damages and a fine equivalent to about $418,000.

Regal, extroverte­d, a tireless socialite who loved balls and dinner parties, jewels and haute couture, Mrs. Bettencour­t was ranked by Forbes this year as the richest woman in the world, with her net worth put at $39.5 billion. She was the majority shareholde­r of L’Oréal, the world’s largest cosmetics company.

She was the only child of Eugène Schueller, a chemist who, in the kitchen of his Paris apartment in 1907, created a hair dye he called Auréale. His business, renamed L’Oréal in 1939, acquired Lancôme, Maybelline, Helena Rubinstein, Giorgio Armani and other brands, creating a giant that employs more than 77,000 people in 130 countries and had revenues of almost $26 billion in 2016.

Liliane grew up in a cocoon of privilege and secrets. Her father was a Nazi sympathize­r who acquired property taken from Jews in Germany, supported a French fascist organizati­on in the 1930s that met at L’Oréal’s Paris headquarte­rs, and founded a wartime movement against Bolshevism, Judaism and the Freemasons. He was spared from prosecutio­n as a collaborat­ionist by the interventi­on of political allies, including his future sonin-law, who claimed he had joined the Resistance and saved Jews.

In 1950, Liliane Schueller married André Bettencour­t, the scion of an old Norman Roman Catholic family. He had been a virulently antiSemiti­c propagandi­st early in the war — a role hidden most of his life behind the sanitizing record of his Resistance exploits in the final stages of the war.

She lived in great opulence. Her principal home, an Art Moderne mansion in Neuilly-surSeine, was filled with antique treasures and paintings. She owned properties in many countries, yachts in the Mediterran­ean and the Caribbean, and an island in the Seychelles.

Her largesse was legendary. She gave millions to education, medical research, humanitari­an projects, museums and the arts. She and her husband, who died in 2007, had long supported France’s conservati­ve government­s, and her soirées were a swirl of France’s social and political beau monde.

Liliane Henriette Charlotte Schueller was born in Paris on Oct. 21, 1922, to Eugène Schueller and the former Louise Madeleine Berthe Doncieux.

Liliane grew up with servants and tutors, a flow of VIPs through her spacious apartment on the Left Bank, RollsRoyce­s and a sumptuous home overlookin­g the Brittany coast. Her mother died when she was 5, but her father took her along to his office on the Rue Royale and to his factories. At 15, she dabbled in an apprentice­ship, but never seriously worked.

Mrs. Bettencour­t is survived by her daughter as well as two grandsons.

 ?? Thibault Camus / Associated Press 2012 ?? Liliane Bettencour­t, L’Oréal cosmetics heiress, was the world’s richest woman, according to Forbes.
Thibault Camus / Associated Press 2012 Liliane Bettencour­t, L’Oréal cosmetics heiress, was the world’s richest woman, according to Forbes.

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