Scala’s remodel strips its charm
I understand the pressure that established restaurants are under to modernize, but updating in the wrong way can be worse than doing nothing. That’s the case at Scala’s Bistro in the Sir Francis Drake Hotel.
When a place has a classic look and feel like Scala’s Bistro, which has been open more than 20 years, it supersedes trends. The Kimpton group has made tweaks periodically to freshen the look, such as changing out the beaded lamps at the tables for something more modern, but the updates were subtle and maintained the feel of the place.
The dining room felt right for its location near Union Square. The first thing visitors saw was the unique chandelier — kind of a Japan-meets-Italy look — that hung above a flower arrangement centered at the entrance to the dining room. The walls were a warm gold, and a vivid painting of fruit was centered over the bar.
A few months ago, the restaurant renovated, stripping away much of the original character. Before, it felt rich and established; now, it looks like the remodel was done on a shoestring. Many of the distinctive elements have been removed, making the dining room more generic.
The mural behind the bar was replaced by a mirror. The gold walls were painted a stark, unflattering white. The same bright white color was used throughout the restaurant. The walls are distracting, and the color looks like a primer coat waiting for a wash of color. The two rows of banquettes that run down the center of the room have been outfitted with a grid in between, like one that might be seen in a French brasserie, which supports round globes like those seen everywhere. Yet the structure isn’t brass; it’s simply painted gold. It, too, cheapens the feel of the restaurant. The large posters on the wall have been replaced with what looks like throw-away art hanging from brass rods.
Compare this to Absinthe, a French-inspired brasserie that closed for three weeks and reopened earlier this month. It’s the definition of a good face-lift: Most people won’t see that much has changed, but the interior has a fresh feel. I wish I could say the same about Scala’s.
Chef Justin Deering has reformatted the menu and added new items, but many favorites remain, such as the fritto misto, Caesar salad, hamburger, pasta and Bostini cream pie. It’s all good, but doesn’t make Scala’s a Top 100 contender, as it did in earlier years.
Scala’s was a place I would recommend for people who wanted a pleasant lunch in Union Square, but a large part of the recommendation was based on the way the restaurant felt. Now the interior has lost its point of view, and the entire package seems a little less enticing because of it.