Eileen West — noted S.F. fashion designer of women’s sleepwear
Eileen West, the San Francisco fashion designer famous for her women’s sleepwear, died Sept. 27 in Marin of complications from organizing pneumonia.
Mrs. West, who was born Aileen Reis and shortened her married name Westerbeke professionally, was 68. Her death was confirmed by her daughter, Julia Westerbeke, the creative director of the Eileen West brand.
Mrs. West founded the Eileen West clothing company with her business partner and friend, Laney Thornton, in 1978. The designs are sold at department stores including Nordstrom, Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s and online. At one time, there were three Eileen West boutiques in San Francisco, one on Divisadero Street and two on Grant Avenue. They closed in the 1990s.
The company was created with an emphasis on using 100 percent cotton fabrics, incorporating feminine details like lace and floral patterns, and creating timeless cuts for its robes, pajamas and nightgowns.
“In the heyday of polyester and nylon, Eileen insisted her garments be made of all cotton and could be sold yearround, a proposition that buyers initially scoffed at,” Thornton told The Chronicle via email. “From the beginning, Eileen impressed me with her insight, intelligence and her profound humility. Partnering with her was one of the professional and personal delights of my life.”
“Sleepwear in the ’70s was different,” Westerbeke said. “My mother is credited with creating this beautiful, comfortable cotton sleepwear. She was kind and compassionate and had an incredible amount of integrity with her designs and how she treated people.
“She’s always been my role model, and I hope to make her proud as I keep the brand alive in her memory.”
Aileen Reis was born on Sept. 1, 1949, to Frank and Mary Reis in Greenbrae, the fourth of six children. She attended schools and grew up throughout Marin County. In the early 1970s, Mrs. West attended the College of Marin and took classes at UC Berkeley. She met David Westerbeke in 1971 at a Leon Russell concert held at the Pepperland auditorium in San Rafael.
The couple married on Sept 6, 1975, at the Westerbeke Ranch in Sonoma. Julia was born in 1981. The family lived in Mill Valley and Sonoma.
After marrying, the Westerbekes worked for Consolidated Milling in San Francisco, a family business owned by David’s grandfather. Mrs. West worked as a bookkeeper, David as a salesman. During this time and while she was working at the Alvin Duskin clothing boutique, David Westerbeke remembers his wife “always doing little sketches and drawings, little flower design things that became pattern, lace and dress ideas.”
When David Westerbeke’s father purchased a house at Sacramento and Divisadero streets in San Francisco, the family met Laney Thornton, who lived next door. A close friendship and business relationship was formed.
“Laney was an importer and entrepreneur and mom was a designer still in her 20s,” Julia Westerbeke said. “Because she was so young when she started, being in business was her real education.”
Together, Thornton and West founded four clothing businesses: an accessories collection named Adero; a women’s sportswear brand called Rio, which Julia Westerbeke said was known for making the ’70s-style “harem-pant fashion overalls”; the Eileen West collection, which started in 1978; and Queen Anne’s Lace, a couture division of Eileen West, which continues to be made in San Francisco. In addition to sleepwear, the label also makes bedding and a line of ready-to-wear women’s clothing.
“The company was originally Aileen West with an ‘A,’ ” Julia Westerbeke said. “They shortened Westerbeke to West, because it was a bit of a mouthful. But then they learned there was another company with a similarly spelled Aileen in the name.”
That company had an issue with the new company, she said. “The business name was then changed to Eileen with an ‘E,’ ” she said.
As president of Eileen West, Westerbeke said her mother “had her hand in every aspect of the business.”
“I don’t know how she found the time — she had an incredible work ethic and attention to deal,” Westerbeke said. “When I was born, she was in Sonoma, and she installed two land lines to keep business calls in check. She was that devoted to her life’s work.”
Since the late 1990s, Eileen West has been licensed to New York sleepwear company Komar but has remained based in San Francisco.
In recognition of her contributions to the fashion industry, Mrs. West was honored with the Lifetime Achievement Award at the Intimate Apparel Industry’s annual Femmy Gala in 2005.
Outside of her business, Westerbeke said her mother was a fan of opera and ballet, Italian cooking and “knew the name of every flower in existence.” Mrs. West also loved animals, and “could pet the deer that would come to her backyard in Marin as a child.”
In addition to her husband and her daughter, Mrs. West is survived by brothers Dennis Reis of Penngrove, Jim Reis of Santa Rosa, Frank Reis of American Canyon and Ed Reis of Tucson; sister Jeanette Long of Chandler, Ariz.; and grandson Beckett Quinn of San Francisco.
Funeral services will be private. The family requests memorial donations be made to the Marin Humane Society in Mrs. West’s name.