PEELING BACK THE LAYERS OF PORTLAND.
Long before Portland began its rise to the status of a prominent West Coast destination, the city was a relaxed hamlet and well-kept secret in the Pacific Northwest. In recent years, Portland has upped its game, becoming known for its dynamic culinary scene, wealth of local creators of one-of-a-kind products, and quirky cool vibe throughout the city.
While first-time visitors may see a cosmopolitan city, the old Portland still exists amid the latest high-profile restaurants, shiny boutique hotels and newest trends in the hippest neighborhoods. And Portlanders’ nostalgia for the icons that inspired today’s city is stronger than ever.
Visitors who long to get away from the lines at the latest hotspots will find the locals hanging out in Portland’s past. What’s new and cool in Portland? The stuff that’s old and was cool is still around and hasn’t lost a step.
At noon on a weekday, the line is nearly to the door at Nong’s Khao Man Gai on Southeast Ankeny Street in the Buckman neighborhood. Beginning with a food cart in 2009, proprietor Nong Poonsukwattana specialized in one dish: Thai poached chicken and rice (also known as Hainanese chicken). Today, her burgeoning food empire is a Portland staple with two food carts, a food truck, a restaurant, and bottles of Khao Man Gai sauce for sale in shops from Portland to New York City.
The restaurant menu has expanded to include pork and rice, but I’m here to get the classic. Nong’s traditional Khao Man Gai dish consists of poached organic chicken with rice simmered in chicken stock and Thai herbs, served with sauce of fermented soybeans, ginger, garlic, Thai chiles, vinegar, house-made syrup and soy sauce.
After eight years, locals still love Nong’s food. My order placed and paid for, I wait for my Khao Man Gai. A blonde Thai woman appears in front of me, and says, “Hi!” with as much energy as a bolt of lightning. “Here’s your chicken and rice present!” Nong exclaims. After the first taste, I regret not ordering the larger size.
In a city as green as Portland, with more than 200 parks, I don’t have to go far to enjoy nature. One of the best ways to escape the city without actually leaving it is to disappear into Forest Park for a while. Established in 1948, Forest Park is exactly what it sounds like. With more 5,100 acres and more than 70 miles of hiking trails, it’s the largest naturally forested area within a U.S. city.
Portlanders treat the park like their own personal backyard, but there’s plenty of room to share. I duck into the forest at the southern end of the Wildwood Trail in Washington Park, home to the Portland Japanese Garden, the International Rose Test Garden and many other beloved Portland institutions.
On the trail through the Hoyt Arboretum, my urban-quick pace slows as I approach the towering residents of the redwood grove. In a few hundred years, these coastal redwoods will grow to 300 feet. Despite their youth, I find my breath slowing, my mind wandering; and I abandon my carefully planned-out day to spend more time on the forest trail.
Eventually, though, it’s time for a beer. Portland’s beer buzz started back in the mid-1980s when Oregon brewing pioneers opened facilities in the city, and has since grown to more than 75 breweries. Though new additions to the brewing scene are always worth checking out, I first take a tour through the operations of one of the pioneers.
Widmer Brothers Brewing is an old-school, early craft brewery that’s ramping up innovation in small batches. Opened in 2016, the company’s innovation brewhouse is where brewers experiment with new beer styles and stretch their creativity. After the full tour, I head next door to quench my thirst at the Widmer Brothers Pub, where I count 15 innovation brews on tap.
In the endless pursuit of the perfect pint, I have to at least try them all.