The Mission’s 24th Street
ALMA COCINA Roasted chicken
What: Roasted half-chicken, two sauces and choice of two sides ($13.50)
When: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. Just a couple of months old, this Peruvian-style rotisserie restaurant at the corner of Folsom and 24th streets is a solid new entry on 24th Street’s food scene. The ceviches are fresh and bright, but the best deal here has to be the rotisserie chicken. The roasted birds are available in quarters, halves and full sizes, and are served with chimichurri and a creamy aji amarillo chile sauce, along with your choice of two generous sides, like sauteed seasonal vegetables, rice, fried yuca and even truffled mashed potatoes. 2801 Folsom St. (at 24th); (415) 341-0389.
TORTAS LOS PICUDOS Torta
What: Pierna deshebrada torta ($8) When: 7 a.m.-8 p.m. Mon.-Sat.
When it comes to tortas stuffed-to-the-brim with flavorful, savory fillings, everyone loves La Torta Gorda. Heck, I love La Torta Gorda — the lush back patio is hard to beat. That said, my favorite spot for Mexican sandwiches on 24th Street is Tortas Los Picudos. Sizewise, their sandwiches are a little more manageable, and the fillings, like the pierna deshebrada featuring hefty shreds of barbecued pork, or the ham, hot dog and beef-stuffed Cubana ($9.50), taste a little brighter and more balanced. 2969 24th St. (near Alabama); (415) 824-4199.
LA SANTANECA DE LA MISSION Pupusas
What: Queso con loroco and revuelta con frijol pupusas ($2-$2.25 each) When: 8:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Mon., Tue., Thu.; until 10 p.m. Fri.Sat.; and, until 9 p.m. Sun.
This family-friendly Salvadoran diner gets packed, and for good reason. Their pupusas — large, tender, fluffy disks of masa, stuffed with succulent fillings like shredded pork, cheese, beans and loroco (an edible flower) — are out of this world. At around 2 bucks each, you can afford to try more than one. Try to save room, though, for sweet and caramelized fried plantains with a side of refried beans and crema ($8.50). 2815 Mission St. (near 24th); (415) 285-2131.
DUM INDIAN SOUL FOOD Biriyani
What: Chicken biriyani ($14) When: 3-10 p.m. Tue.-Thu. and 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sun.
Rupam Bhagat first brought his take on classic Mumbai cooking to the Bay Area three years ago with his roving Dum food truck. Whether it’s from his truck or at Bhagat’s brickand-mortar location on 24th Street that’s just over a year old, the chef continues to serve one of the best versions of biriyani around — perfectly golden basmati rice enriched with moist chunks of chicken, caramelized onion and shreds of cilantro, served with a side of cumin-scented raita that’s dotted with tiny chickpea flour balls. It’s a hearty and soulsatisfying dish. 3111 24th St. (near Folsom); (415) 874-9045.
THE NAPPER TANDY Irish breakfast
What: Traditional Irish breakfast ($14.95)
When: 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Mon.-Fri., 9 a.m.-2 a.m. Sat.-Sun.
A full Irish breakfast is a thing of beauty, especially if you had one too many the night before. The version at the Napper Tandy is a solid and exceptionally hearty one. It’s a starchy, fatty feast that comprises eggs, sausages, bacon rashers, black and white pudding, baked beans, grilled tomatoes and french fries, along with plenty of soda bread. For more demure appetites, it could easily be shared among two or three people. 3200 24th St. (at South Van Ness); (415) 550-7510.
WISE SONS JEWISH DELICATESSEN Soup + sandwich
What: The Downtown Special — half-sandwich, side salad, matzo ball soup ($14.50)
When: 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Sat. and 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Sun.
Normally I find soup and sandwich combos a bore, but I’m obsessed with the Downtown Special. Not only do you get your choice of sandwich (I’m partial to the trout salad), with crunchy pickles and a side salad (the potato salad is killer), but you also get a full portion of matzo ball soup: A light and fluffy, softballsize matzo ball, sitting in rich, super-chicken-y broth dotted with tender carrot coins, noodles and pieces of chicken. The menu swears it’s not as good as your bubbe’s, but I’ll tell you, it’s way better than anything my grandma used to make. 3150 24th St. (at Shotwell); (415) 787-3354.
BARZOTTO Italian-style ramen
What: Italian-style ramen ($12, only via Caviar)
When: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30-10 p.m. Mon-Fri., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sat.-Sun.
Michelle Minori, a 2017 Chronicle Rising Star Chef, has worked at some of the best restaurants in the city. At the 1½-year-old Barzotto, Minori has brought her A-game, serving up house-made noodles and other dishes that, considering the high level of quality, are all a relative steal. For a playful take on classic Japanese ramen, try Minori’s Italian-style version — made with chewy ramen noodles, a rich chicken stock and topped with porchetta, slow-cooked egg and salsa verde — which is available only via online-delivery service Caviar. 1270 Valencia St. (near 24th); (415) 285-1200.
BASA SEAFOOD EXPRESS Fish & chips
What: Seafood Combo ($13.99) When: Noon-7 p.m. Mon.-Sat. Part fishmonger and part nofrills eatery, this small mom-andpop seafood shop is a diamond in the rough. You’ll be hard pressed to find a better basket of fish and chips: The seafood combo, which could easily serve two, includes generous portions of expertly fried cornmeal-battered basa (a type of catfish) and plump panko-crusted oysters and shrimp. For something lighter, try the Hawaiian-style tuna or salmon poke ($9.99). 3064 24th St. (near Folsom); (415) 550-2388.
BIG REC TAP ROOM Happy hour
What: Cheeseburger and a beer happy-hour special ($10)
When: 11:30 a.m.-midnight Tue.Sun.; 4 p.m.-midnight Mon. (Happy hour: noon-6 p.m. weekdays)
At happy hour, a cheeseburger (normally $13) will run you just 10 bucks — and best of all, it’s served with a pint of your choice. The cheeseburger is solid: The flavorful smashed patty has a nice char and is nestled in a brioche bun with plenty of thinly sliced onions, along with tomato and lettuce, and dressed with a Thousand Island-like sauce. (If you’re not in the mood for beef, a chicken sandwich or vegetarian beet burger are available.) A savvy, yet manageable, beer selection includes local favorites like Fieldwork and Berryessa Brewing Co. 3066 24th St. (near Folsom); (415) 796-3676.
LA TAQUERIA Tacos
What: Dorado-style super carne asada taco ($7) When: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tue.-Sat., until 8 p.m. Sun.
There are dozens of taquerias and taco trucks in the Mission, but it’s understandable why La Taqueria, just off 24th Street, continues to draw lines and earn critical praise. Meats are chopped to order, the delightfully piquant salsas are freshly made and there are off-menu options, including the dorado-style tacos, which are griddled until crispy. These may not be the cheapest tacos in the Mission, but they’re certainly among the best. 2889 Mission St. (near 24th ); (415) 285-7117.