EAST COAST ADVENTURES.
New Taoyuan rail line gives quick, cheap access to the sprawling city loaded with attractions, landmarks
It’s one of the riddles of travel: I’ve seen the sunrise in Shanghai, but I’ve never seen Shanghai. I had steak and pisco sours in Santiago, but I’ve never been to that city. I’ve wandered for miles in Frankfurt, but haven’t seen a single neighborhood. Answer: Long layovers. It’s the maddening plot twist of spending five, seven, 10 hours in an airport while waiting for a flight — but not being able to experience the great city there. Sometimes, it’s possible to stow the luggage, secure the necessary paperwork, get into town and back, and return through immigration, customs and security in time. But more often than not, it’s just not feasible. Taoyuan International in Taipei was that way — it’s one of the more popular hubs for trans-Pacific flights and long layovers are common, but an hour-long (minimum) $45 cab ride each way into Taipei made it too pricey and time-consuming to go. Until this year. In March, officials launched the Taoyuan Metro, a direct rail line between the airport’s two terminals and Taipei Main Station. It’s a 45-minute ride that costs about $5 each way. Once in the Main Station, travelers have access to the Taipei Metro system, by far one of the easiest ways to see a sprawling city with plenty of attractions and landmarks.
What follows is a loose guide on how to experience Taipei — attractions, temples, museums, restaurants and, if the timing is right, Taiwan’s best night markets — even if you only have a four- to five-hour window between flights. Nearly all of the sites are within a short walk of a Taipei Metro station; the system sells a Roundtrip Airport MRT ticket plus a 48-hour Taipei Metro pass for about $16-$17 (www.tymetro.com.tw/ticket/).
If you have more than 12 hours and have seen Taipei already, take the Metro to the Main Station, then catch a high-speed train to Tainan, the country’s former capital, home to the signature Danzai noodles and more than 1,600 temples. Taipei to Tainan is about two hours each way.
(Note: Obviously all times given are estimates; do not risk missing your flight by cutting it too close. Bring your passport and fill out the Taiwan entry-exit form at the airport. Check all times online, including for the Taoyuan Metro service.)