San Francisco Chronicle

Past: ‘What is hanbok?’

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The exhibition begins with aan exploratio­n of the fashion of the Joseon-dynasty (1392-1897), whhich was heavily influenced by the Confucian customs and philossoph­ies of Korean society. The first gallery is centered around thee hanbok, a traditiona­l Korean enably semble that Han says is “probathe most familiar piece of Korean dress.” For women, hanbok inncludes a high, full chima (skirt) over a longer jeogori (blouse). For meen, the hanbok includes the addition of

baji (pants) and an outer po (roobe). Most of the garments in the first gallery have been reproduced­based on historic relics and represenf tations of fashion in the art ofthe period, including a re-creation of King Yeongjo’s pre-1740 dopo ((robe) that displays the precision of Joseon constructi­on.

Recently discovered tombs ffrom the era have also yielded new informatio­n about what was wworn in the most intimate layers.

“There’s no historic record ffor undergarme­nts,” says Han. “They didn’t get passed down from ggeneratio­n to generation. Now with the excavation of these tombs, weknow that for upper-class women

there would have been six, sevven layers of skirt. For Confucian socie ety it was very important to beburied in your finest pieces, includller­y ing the undergarme­nts.”

Also on view in the first galare the bolder, more colorful celebrator­y first birthday enseembles upper-class children wore. “The first birthday was very immportant in a culture where infant mortality was high,” says Hann. “To make it to that first birthday was very significan­t.”

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