San Francisco Chronicle

Climate change, neglect threaten famed esplanade

- By Andrea Rodriguez Andrea Rodriguez is an Associated Press writer.

HAVANA — Havana starts on the Malecon, the elegant, crumbling coastal boulevard whose early 20th century buildings face a sea that sprays them with salt and pounds them with huge waves brought in by cold fronts and hurricanes.

That sea is warming and rising. The hurricanes are getting wetter and more intense. Along with a lack of maintenanc­e, climate change is pushing the Malecon toward collapse.

Seventy percent of the buildings along the oldest, most fabled stretch of the Malecon have deteriorat­ed so badly that they require partial or total demolition, according to one recent study. And at least four other buildings are in the process of being demolished after floodwater­s lingered on the island last month, highlighti­ng the many signs of the trouble faced by Cuba and the wider Caribbean in an age of rising temperatur­es.

Cuban experts predict the Malecon may not be able to last in its current form beyond 2100, when waters along Havana’s northern coast may rise as much as three feet, bringing larger waves and potentiall­y catastroph­ic flooding.

After Irma scraped the northern coast of Cuba from Sept. 8 to 10, killing 10 people, the Malecon was closed for three weeks because of caveins on the six-lane roadway, sidewalk and seawall, where tens of thousands of Cubans sit, drink, eat and enjoy breezes off the Florida Straits.

The 5-mile Malecon was built atop coral reefs and mangrove forests that once provided a buffer between the sea and inland areas. Because of its inherently exposed position, many of the buildings along the stretch have elevated entrances and other features meant to accommodat­e flooding.

But those early adaptive measures are already getting an update. Cuba is in the middle of a broad rethinking of its land-use and urban planning policies, which include limiting the size of buildings on the Malecon, rebuilding its seawall with a water-shedding curve, erecting wave-breaking structures along the coast, and changing the drainage and sewage system so that seawater doesn’t enter and erode the Malecon from below.

Still, that may not be enough. While hundreds of historic and cultural landmarks around Latin America are threatened by climate change, neglect has left the Malecon in worse shape than most.

A January report by the Havana Historian’s Office found that 52 of the 72 buildings along the oldest stretch are in poor condition and would require demolition.

Of the 726 apartments in buildings on the traditiona­l Malecon, which is home to 2,555 people, only 46 were in good condition, according to the report.

Thirty buildings were previously demolished between 1994 and 2013, according to the report.

For now, demolished buildings will be left as empty lots until the Cuban government finds the funds to build new, climate-adapted structures. Cuban regulation­s make new private constructi­on virtually impossible, particular­ly in historic areas.

 ?? Ramon Espinosa / Associated Press ?? Residents wade through floodwater­s on Havana’s Malecon on Sept. 10 after the passage of Hurricane Irma. The coastal boulevard was built atop coral reefs and mangrove forests.
Ramon Espinosa / Associated Press Residents wade through floodwater­s on Havana’s Malecon on Sept. 10 after the passage of Hurricane Irma. The coastal boulevard was built atop coral reefs and mangrove forests.

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