Not the hot mama it used to be
As we left Mamanoko on Chestnut Street we ran into friends arriving for their reservation. It was their first time dining at this Japanese fusion restaurant. Like us, they were wondering why the owners had decided to close the former restaurant that they loved, the popular Mexican Mamacita, to open an Asian concept.
Mamacita blazed new trails, a perennial Top 100 restaurant that was at the forefront of offering a more sophisticated, nuanced take on Mexican food. When I asked owner Stryker Scales about the transformation, he simply said his partners had decided it was time for a change.
Still, the change seems perplexing given that the partners still own Padrecito in Cole Valley, a restaurant with a menu similar to Mamacita but lacking the finesse of the original. With Mamanoko (which means mother’s child), the owners have resurrected another restaurant they closed more than a year ago, the nearby Umami, after a decade in business. Even more recycling: The owners have now put some Mamacita favorites, including guacamole, chilaquiles, carnitas tacos and enchiladas, on the menu at their other nearby restaurant, the Tipsy Pig.
Not knowing the inner workings of the partnership, I can only comment on my perspective as a diner: The switch from the Mexican Mamacita to a Japanese-inspired restaurant seems like an obtuse move.
After three visits it became clear that Mamanoko is no Mamacita. Mamacita was a leader; Mamanoko is an alsoran. The food is pleasant but brings nothing new to the dining scene. The style of food seems to fulfill a need in the neighborhood, with reasonable prices and an impressive collection of whiskeys that will keep bar patrons happy.
The partners replaced the clusters of Mexican star-light fixtures hanging from the ceiling with similarly arranged round Japanese akari lanterns, and used cedar wainscoting and wood accents for the Japanese theme. They also added an eight-seat sushi bar in the 90-seat space.
The food takes some creative license but is recognizable. The menu features updated greatest hits in several categories: snacks, dumplings, sliders, tempura, sticks and salads, and toka.
The nine house rolls and the same number of “Usual Suspects” are listed on the back of the one-page menu. Nigiri/sashimi offerings are on a separate page. These preparations are straightforward. The fish is fresh and seasonings standard, whether it’s hamachi ($11 for 2 pieces of nigiri and $16 for sashimi); OO Japanese toro blue fin tuna belly ($18/$27); or hirami or halibut ($11/$16).
At most Japanese restaurants that have come on the scene in the last couple of years, the chefs individually season each piece of nigiri. Here the preparations of all the nigiri taste similar; diners will probably want to embellish the fish with the soy sauce provided on each table and the accompanying wasabi. The rolls, such as the Midori ($18), which includes salmon, tuna, avocado, jalapeño, scallions and tempura flakes, seem overdone, but then again that’s generally the nature of these types of maki rolls.
Several dishes that come out of the kitchen (run by Taka Iwamoto and Deiber Tzab) are at the top of my must-try list, particularly the chopped Little Gem and soba noodle salad ($13) tossed with pulled chicken, peanuts, crispy shallots and orangesesame vinaigrette.
I’m also a fan of the pork dumplings ($13), where the crescents of dough are griddled together attached to a translucent sheet that looks like bronzed parchment. The filling is bold, and the steamy interior and crunchy exterior create a satisfying combination. The shrimp shu mai ($12) are fine but pale in comparison to what you’ll find at many dim sum parlors, and the chicken dumplings ($12) are surprisingly anemic. If you want shrimp, try the skewers of fried ebi ($13), wrapped in bacon and coated with panko crumbs.
Sliders are also a pleasant cultural fusion. The white spongy steamed buns are either filled with crispy pork loin ($11) with tonkatsu sauce and a layer of shiso and spicy mustard slaw; or ground Kobe-style beef ($12) layered with spicy shallot aioli and ginger-spiced pickles.
The two tempura selections are made into croquettes: with rock shrimp and corn ($14); or seasonal vegetables ($11) that look kind of like a misshaped pancake. They’re pleasantly crunchy, though not as good as when the ingredients are battered and fried separately.
Some items are overembellished, such as the grilled chicken meatballs ($12), where the thick, sticky sauce becomes the dominant element; and the miso koji glazed black cod ($18) on a bed of fried spinach. The fish was oversalted, and the spinach was soggy from too much oil.
I still can’t see why the dessert sushi rolls made the transition from Umami to Mamanoko; obviously, I must be in the minority. The brownie dough roll ($11) consists of gummy raw batter wrapped around a log of salted caramel ice cream that is then cut to look like a maki roll and garnished with pistachio brittle and sea salt. To me, there’s nothing appealing about cold, raw dough.
The vast experience of the owners is reflected in the service, which is professional but relaxed. Pacing is good, and generally Scales is on the floor to oversee the operation.
While I can quibble with the decision to change, the restaurant seems to have found its footing in the neighborhood. On my visits, at least, it appeared to be as popular as its predecessors. Still, my heart belongs to Mamacita.