San Francisco Chronicle

Raul Ayala, Dirty Habit

- By Lou Bustamante

Raul Ayala was just looking for a job when he joined the opening team at Dirty Habit in 2014 as a barback. Though he was curious about careers in the hospitalit­y industry, bartending was never a career he had seriously considered — until the job changed all that.

“After experienci­ng a few nights barbacking during those early days at Dirty Habit, I was changed — I literally fell in love with the energy, the people and the adrenaline,” says Ayala.

Ayala worked his way up, learning the ropes from his mentors and colleagues: Brian Means (a 2015 Bar Star who now works with the Mina Group) and Sarah Ruiz (who manages the bar at the D.C. outlet of Dirty Habit). He learned not only the recipes and fundamenta­ls, but also the operationa­l side of the business.

“This seems simple, but one of the best things I learned was to be organized,” says Ayala. “Attention to detail and organizati­on are huge foundation­al lessons, and so important while working at such a busy San Francisco restaurant and bar, especially on a weekend night.”

Today, as bar manager, Ayala has developed a style and menu that feels like a seamless and natural evolution of his predecesso­rs. He developed a menu that melded his own creations with Dirty Habit’s elegant feel.

“For me it’s all about connection­s to memories — I like to reconnect with flavors and textures I’ve experience­d and enjoyed in my past, especially from my childhood growing up in the small town of Tanhuato, Michoacán, Mexico,” says Ayala.

Mexican ingredient­s show up and showcase his identity without feeling gimmicky — things like epazote herb and chile morita add depth of flavor rather than shock value. There’s even a Japanese-influenced horchata, made with miso, sesame and rice: “I do use some unusual ingredient­s but it’s important to balance them out in harmonious ways. It’s like putting together the components of a great dish. We want the value to be there and we want to blow their minds.”

12 Fourth St., S.F., inside Hotel Zelos.

 ?? Photos by Russell Yip / The Chronicle ??
Photos by Russell Yip / The Chronicle

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States