San Francisco Chronicle

FOOD AND DRINK

- — Sarah Fritsche

The Cooking Gene: A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South,

by Michael W. Twitty (Amistad; 464 pages; $28.99). Written with elegance, this book continues Twitty’s online exploratio­n of African food ways, his genealogy and the South’s complicate­d food history.

The Juhu Beach Club Cookbook: Indian Spice, Oakland Soul,

by Preeti Mistry with Sarah Henry (Running Press; 288 pages; $30). For her first cookbook, named after her Oakland restaurant, Mistry bares her soul as she chronicles the journey of Juhu Beach Club from pop-up to beloved “mom-and-mom” neighborho­od spot.

On Vegetables: Modern Recipes for the Home Kitchen,

by Jeremy Fox (Phaidon; 320 pages; $49.95). The marvelous first cookbook from Fox — who earned accolades for his cooking at Napa’s now-closed Ubuntu — serves up fine dining-caliber vegetable-focused recipes. Dishes like potato beignets, romesco and charred scallion are exciting and tempting.

Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat, by Samin Nosrat (Simon & Schuster; 480 pages; $28). By mastering these four “notes” of the culinary scale, Nosrat guarantees that “you can become not only a good cook, but a great one.” With its instructiv­e recipes and playful illustrati­ons by Wendy McNaughton, the Berkeley writer’s cookbook is an enjoyable culinary master class.

The Sioux Chef ’s Indigenous Kitchen,

by Sean Sherman, with Beth Dooley (University of Minnesota Press; 256 pages; $34.95). Realizing how underrepre­sented American Indian foods are, Sherman began hosting pop-up dinners in 2014 to shine a light on indigenous food systems. The business has since grown to include catering, a food truck and a forthcomin­g restaurant.

State Bird Provisions: A Cookbook,

by Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski (Ten Speed Press; 368 pages; $40). Much like the highly popular Fillmore Street restaurant it’s named after, this cookbook features recipes that are inventive and unexpected. Though not necessaril­y for the casual home cook, it offers a breakdown of the cooking behind one of our most popular restaurant­s.

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