EXPLORING SPLENDOR AND HISTORY OF BUDAPEST.
Budapest is a lot bigger than it should be. Once a capital of the sprawling Austro-Hungarian Empire, it now presides over a midsize European nation. But the city split by the Danube hasn’t forgotten its celebrated past, making it a glorious place to (literally) soak up history and see how a former Soviet satellite has prospered. From its baths to its synagogues to its packed “ruin pubs” built in the shells of abandoned buildings, here’s how to spend a day in what many consider the capital of Eastern Europe.
MORNING
You’ll want to stay in the Pest district, on the east side of the Danube River. (The hilly Buda section’s on the west.) Hotel Moments, a sleekly redecorated 19th century building, is a good choice, putting you steps from the important sites. But skip the hotel breakfast and head to Rachel’s for coffee and flodini, a Jewish pastry concoction layered with poppy seeds, apple, walnut and plum jam — a treat whatever your faith. Hungary was once home to a vibrant Jewish community as evidenced by the Dohany Street Synagogue, the second largest in the world, with a towering Moorish design centered on a holy ark that looks like the Taj Mahal. Take an English-language tour and hear about the organist who played at the 1859 opening ceremony, famed composer Franz Liszt. You’ll exit through the Holocaust Memorial Garden honoring the 450,000 Jewish residents killed during Nazi rule. A stunning tree of life memorial with thousands of aluminum willow branches is the gift of the late Bernard Schwartz, an actor with Hungarian roots better known as Tony Curtis. To make this an ecumenical visit, head next to St. Stephen’s. The basilica honors two people crucial to the city’s history. A reliquary preserves the right hand of Stephen I, Hungary’s first king, while others come to see the grave of Ferenc Puskás, a soccer star whose legendary left foot led his team to victory over England in 1953, a win still savored today.
MIDDAY
But for the most part, the 20th century was tough on Hungary. After the Nazis, came the Soviets. While most countries have tried to forget their communist occupiers, Budapest remembers in fascinating Memento Park on the city’s outskirts, home to statues of Lenin, Stalin and dozens of nameless workers and flag-waving comrades. You can take a bus, or a taxi will run about $20. Stroll among the fallen heroes, and catch the film compilation of campy but all-too-scary secret-agent training videos. You can pick up the DVD or an authentic Soviet medal from the park’s Red Star souvenir stand, leaving no doubt that capitalists won the Cold War.
AFTERNOON
Back in the city, grab lunch at Karavan, a street food court offering everything from veggie burgers to sausages to Transylvania sauerkraut stew. Make sure to try langos, a disc of fried bread topped with garlic, sour cream and shredded cheese. One is big enough to split. After all that touring, it’s time for a soak. Built on hot springs, the city boasts numerous pools and spas, but the favorite among locals and visitors alike is Szechenyi, a grandly decorated 19th century bathhouse with saunas, cold plunges and steam rooms. You’ll get the flavor in its outdoor pools, where tourists splash, and old men in Speedos soak and play chess. On Saturday nights, the vibe’s different during Bath Parties, with laser shows, bars and speakers blasting until 3 a.m. Or try the hotel-based Gellert spa in Buda. It has been restored to Art Nouveau glamour, yet also features an outdoor wave pool. You’ve never bathed in such elegance before.
EVENING
In any case, you’ll want to visit Buda, the fashionable hilly district on the Danube’s west bank. At the base of the Chain Bridge, a funicular and paths lead to Fisherman’s Bastion terrace, which offers one of Europe’s most memorable city vistas. Time your visit to sunset, and you’ll marvel at the illuminated bridges, river traffic and commanding Parliament building. Before dinner, a word of warning: It’s easy to find bad Hungarian food in the capital city. Hundreds of restaurants offer goulash that tastes like it was canned by Campbell’s. Tracking down the real stuff is a bit harder. Balthazar in Buda’s castle district is a surprising option. Despite its sleek dining room, the boutique hotel goes old school with a buttery-soft goose liver pate and a rich goulash served with house-baked bread to dip in the spiced broth. Finish up with a chicken paprikash that lets the flavors shine through (instead of burying them in sour cream). For a nightcap, head to a ruin pub, a post-Soviet invention that began as underground watering holes decorated with graffiti and junk store furniture. One of the city’s first, Szimpla Kert, opens during the day and heats up evenings, when Euro backpackers line up for entry. Or try the Corvin Club, occupying the rooftop of a derelict Soviet department store. Rest assured, comrades, Lenin never dreamed of anything like this.