San Francisco Chronicle

A RECIPE FOR GOING GLUTEN-FREE IN 2018.

- By Sarah Fritsche Sarah Fritsche is a San Francisco Chronicle staff writer. Email: sfritsche@sfchronicl­e.com Twitter/Instagram: @foodcentri­c

It’s that time of year again. You know what I mean — as another new year arrives, it means that once more it’s time for the annual tradition of trying to curb carbs, sweets or any other indulgence­s in an effort to help combat any waistline expansion that might have occurred over the holidays.

Mina Makram knows this drill of deprivatio­n all too well, which is why he and his business partner and girlfriend, Kim Sullivan, launched their gluten-free and Paleo-friendly bakery, Ducks & Dragons, in 2014.

“A lot of people feel like they’re missing out or feel deprived. That’s always the worst thing when you’re on a diet,” Makram says. “You’re bound to fall off the wagon.”

Makram, who once weighed over 400 pounds, has shed more than half his body weight through exercise and a low-carb ketogenic diet. But as a lifelong lover of bread, he found the options for glutenfree and Paleo-friendly breads were, well, lacking.

“The idea of bread out of a freezer or package that says ‘six month shelf-life’ — it’s horrifying to me,” says Makram.

Makram came to the United States as a teenager with his family as refugees from Egypt nearly two decades ago. Upon finding himself with a lot of extra time on his hands after being let go from a small Silicon Valley startup, the electrical engineer began experiment­ing to see if he could make better gluten-free and Paleo bread.

“All I cared about at the time was: how do I make bread that tastes really good, but has good nutrition and would help me control my diet?”

For his secret gluten-free flour blend, the self-taught Makram uses a blend of almond and coconut flours, along with fiber-rich psyllium husks, flax seeds (for omega 3s), egg whites and sweeteners like honey and coconut sugar to develop his closelygua­rded recipes.

“I just kept experiment­ing and experiment­ing over the years. As I learned more about how our flour mix behaves, I’ve adjusted and made things better and better,” says Makram.

Case in point, when he first developed his bagel recipe, Makram says that he went through dozens of iterations before he found one that would hold together when boiled and then baked — and still taste good.

Makram sees his lack of a profession­al baking background as a good thing because it has made him more adventurou­s with his experiment­s in the kitchen. Coming from an engineerin­g background, all of this experiment­ation is well-suited to his personalit­y, he says. “I love tinkering and figuring it out as I go.”

With a handful of recipes establishe­d, Makram decided to leave behind the world of tech startups and see if he could make a go selling his breads at farmers’ markets. He got a spot at the Saturday San Mateo farmers’ market.

Under the banner of Ducks & Dragons, his stand built a steady following. Six months in, demand was high enough that Makram had to move from a shared commercial kitchen in San Mateo to his own fully glutenfree baking facility in San Carlos.

The bakery currently produces about a dozen different kinds of bread, including bagels, baguettes and incredibly addictive chocolate and cheddar rolls, which Makram sells at the San Mateo market. Flavorings also take a cue from Makram’s Middle Eastern heritage with flavorings like sesame seeds, za’atar and Medjool dates.

You can also now find Ducks & Dragons items online through Good Eggs, as well as a handful of specialty markets like Luke’s Local, Bi-Rite Market on 18th Street and Sigona’s in Redwood City and Palo Alto. Makram and Sullivan hope to continue to expand the business and are currently planning to launch a Kickstarte­r campaign to help purchase a new delivery truck and amp up their retail presence. Oh, and as for the name? Makram’s mother’s nickname for her son is “Ducky” — and Sullivan loves dragons.

“How do I make bread that tastes really good, but has good nutrition and would help me control my diet?” — Mina Makram, Ducks & Dragons

 ??  ?? Clockwise from top: Ducks & Dragon owner Mina Makram takes out some of his signature gluten-free bread from the oven; some of the finished products; Makram and partner Kim Sullivan pose in their San Carlos kitchen.
Clockwise from top: Ducks & Dragon owner Mina Makram takes out some of his signature gluten-free bread from the oven; some of the finished products; Makram and partner Kim Sullivan pose in their San Carlos kitchen.
 ??  ??

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States