San Francisco Chronicle

A new era of chicken pot pie

- By Nik Sharma Nik Sharma is a two-time IACP award winner; his first solo cookbook, “Season” (Chronicle Books), comes out in the fall. Email: food@sfchronicl­e.com. Twitter: @abrowntabl­e

Like a celebrity who reinvents him or herself to stay relevant, the chicken pot pie has managed to stay alive by adapting to time, geography and people’s tastes.

But the original chicken pot pie is a far cry from its present-day avatar. Created by the Romans, it consisted of a thick crust of wheat and oil in which whole birds were stuffed and baked in a pot hung over a fire. (That’s how the dish got its name.)

As time progressed, the pie underwent several transforma­tions. The pastry would get flakier while the filling would get more refined and varied. The humble pot pie would make its way through medieval Europe and eventually cross the Atlantic.

In America, chicken pot pies grew in popularity as a casserole-like dish, used as a vehicle for leftover meat and vegetables. As food technology advanced and manufactur­ers toyed with frozen foods, the first frozen chicken pot pie came into existence in the 1950s, developed by the Morton Packaging Co. The convenienc­e factor of heating up a frozen pot pie — as opposed to making the pastry and filling separately — made them extremely attractive. Now it’s even on the menu of fast-food chains like KFC.

The basic architectu­re of the chicken pot pie is simple yet elegant. Tender chunks of roasted chicken sit in a roux, a creamy sauce of flour and fat. The choice of vegetables might vary by season, though peas and carrots are found in most recipes. It’s all encased in a blanket of puff pastry and baked until it morphs into golden-brown, buttery flaky layers waiting to be cracked.

A stroll through a local farmers’ markets in the Bay Area can inspire diverse versions of the chicken pot pie. You might come across chunks of hot chorizo, or consider one spiced with za’atar.

This particular recipe of mine is a marriage of old and new ideas. Bits of leftover rotisserie chicken are tossed and seasoned with garam masala, cayenne and turmeric, while the addition of curry leaves brings a bit of brightness. Now all you need is a glass of wine and a knife and fork to make your way through this pie.

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 ?? Photos by Nik Sharma ?? A flaky and buttery chicken pot pie, from top; leeks are a tasty addition; the pie ready to be popped into the oven.
Photos by Nik Sharma A flaky and buttery chicken pot pie, from top; leeks are a tasty addition; the pie ready to be popped into the oven.
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