Recipe: Savory Lamb Swirl Buns

A combination of sweet and spicy, these bright yellow buns, seasoned with cardamom and saffron, are filled with a spiced mixture of ground lamb and sheep cheese, perfect for a weekend breakfast treat. You can also prepare the filling the night before and refrigerate it. Before using, remove the fat that has hardened and discard it. Note: Kala jeera — black cumin — is a darker, smaller seed that resembles cumin but with a much deeper lemony flavor. It is sometimes mistakenly sold as nigella, but they’re not the same thing as they taste and look very different.

Lamb filling

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup diced white or yellow onion 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 teaspoon garam masala 1 teaspoon red chile flakes ½ teaspoon cayenne (optional) ½ teaspoon ground turmeric 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 pound ground lamb ½ teaspoon fine sea salt 2 tablespoons cider vinegar

Buns

20 saffron strands Seeds from 4 green cardamom pods ½ teaspoon sea salt ½ cup whole milk 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed, plus a little extra to grease the bowl and baking pan ¼ cup sugar 1 egg 1½ teaspoons dry yeast 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus a little extra to roll out the dough ½ cup soft sheep cheese or goat cheese, at room temperature 1 egg yolk 2 teaspoons water 1 teaspoon kala jeera (black cumin)

To make the lamb filling: Heat the oil in a skillet on medium heat. Once the oil is hot, add the onion and cook for about 4 to 5 minutes until translucent. Add the garlic, garam masala, chile, cayenne (if using), turmeric and tomato paste and cook for 40 seconds while stirring. Mix in the lamb, salt and vinegar and cook with occasional stirring until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 25 to 30 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Drain the excess fat before using. Allow to cool completely before using.

To make the buns: Using a mortar and pestle, grind the saffron, cardamom and salt to a fine powder. Add it to a small saucepan with the milk, butter and sugar on low heat with occasional stirring until the butter and sugar have melted and dissolved. Remove from heat and allow to cool; if you have a cooking thermometer, let it cool to at least 110 degrees. Whisk in the egg with a fork. Set aside.

Mix the yeast and flour in the bowl of a stand mixer using the paddle attachment on low speed until combined. With the machine still on low speed, add the milk-egg mixture in a steady stream into the dry ingredients and continue to mix for about 5 to 6 minutes, until the dough comes together. It should be quite elastic when done.

Knead the dough on a lightly floured surface for about a minute. Shape the dough into a ball, and transfer to a large lightly buttered bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and keep in a warm spot of the kitchen until it doubles in size, about 1½ to 2 hours.

To finish: Line a 9-inch square baking pan with parchment paper and grease with a little butter. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Roll the dough to form a rectangle that is roughly 9-by-12 inches. (It doesn’t have to be perfect.) Sprinkle the cooled cooked lamb mixture all over the dough, leaving a ½-inch border on each side. Do the same with the cheese.

Starting from the shorter end, roll the pastry over itself to form a log, pressing gently and pinching the seams on the top side to seal. Cut the log into 12 pieces, about 1 inch thick. Arrange them in the prepared pan. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit for 1 hour, until the dough has risen and the rolls touch each other in the pan.

Whisk the yolk and the water together in a small bowl and generously brush the surface of the rolls. Sprinkle the black cumin on top and bake for 25 to 30 minutes until golden brown and a skewer comes out clean from the center. Allow the buns to cool in the pan for 5 minutes, and then transfer them to a wire rack to cool. Serve warm.