Castle Crags’ spectacular little-seen world TOM STIENSTRA
With one short jog from Interstate 5 in Northern California, you can discover the state park that is hidden in plain sight.
The turnoff is at Castella, bound for Castle Crags State Park. Drivers on I-5 get eyepopping views of the granite spires, pyramids and a missileshaped dome that poke 6,000foot holes in the sky.
Each hour, about 2,000 vehicles pass by Castle Crags, according to Caltrans. Of those, an average of about 18 — or roughly .09 percent — take the Castella turnoff. Most make the short drive into the park to Vista Point, take pictures of Castle Crags, use the restroom, and then head back to I-5. Only a handful stay to hike, bike, fish, explore or camp.
Even on three-day weekends, Castle Crags is one of the few state parks that has available campsites. In addition, the park has some little-known walk-in sites nestled near the upper Sacramento River, a mile from the main campgrounds.
Seeing the towering crags for the first time can be shocking — but it’s only the start.
Vista Point: This lookout platform — where you peer up at the crags — is positioned perfectly for a postcard-quality photograph. From the upper parking lot, it’s a flat, twominute walk to the lookout. Most visitors stretch their legs a bit, enjoy the view, and then hit the road.
Castle Crags Trail: The trailhead is a short distance below the Vista Point parking area. It starts as a route through forest, then clears the trees to provide a view of Girard Ridge across the canyon. The noise from I-5 below can be a bit annoying, but it disappears as you approach the crags. The hike climbs 2,500 feet over 2.8 miles, at times with rock steps, to the foot of Castle Dome and Dome Spire (which can be scaled only by experts with ropes). Beyond that is the cradle of the crags. You can free climb rocks or scramble to a perch with a view to the north of Mount Shasta. 6-mile round trip.
Burstarse Falls, Part 1: The trailhead is for the Dog Trail (see directions) and is signed for the Pacific Crest Trail. The route starts with a rocky and steep 0.8-mile climb to the PCT. Turn left and the hike becomes a breeze (there’s a great view of Grey Rocks to your left) for about 2 miles to a shaded canyon with Burstarse Creek. Many scramble up the canyon from here to enjoy a series of short steps, falls and cascades. 6-mile round trip.
Burstarse Falls, Part 2: For a frontal view of Upper Burstarse Falls, there is a “Part 2,” but it involves an off-trail scramble. From Burstarse Creek, hop across the creek and continue on the PCT for another 0.4 of a mile (the trail climbs out of the canyon to the left, then turns to the right toward the Upper Crags). At a sharp turn, you’ll see a worn, unsigned path on your right that leads to a spur route. This is where most leave the trail. It takes a scramble of about 100 yards for the view of a series of chute-like waterfalls, more than 100 feet, top to bottom.
Castle Crags Century: The Castle Crags Century bike ride, scheduled for June 23, is called “California’s most beautiful century.” This year’s route includes a “Mountain Metric,” where cyclists ride through forest, emerge over the TrinityDivide and ride past Castle Crags, with a series of sensational views along the way.
Camp: The drive-in campsites are set in forest, located along three camp loops and, unlike other state parks, never seem to fill (even on holiday weekends). There is discernible noise from I-5 and occasional freight trains in the canyon, which irritates the sensitive. Better choices are the oft-missed walk-in sites on the eastern side of the canyon along the river (you drive across a bridge to get there). The locals who live in the canyon say that the freight trains, once you get used them, actually feel comforting and put them right to sleep.
Trout fishing: Catch-andrelease is allowed year-round on the nearby Upper Sacramento River, with several good spots in the vicinity of Castella, Gibson, Pollard Flat and Lamoine. The official opening day of trout season is April 29, when it is also legal to fish Castle Creek, often good near the confluence with the Upper Sac. Tom Stienstra is the outdoors writer for The San Francisco Chronicle. His Outdoor Report can be heard at 7:35 a.m., 9:35 a.m. and 12:35 p.m. Saturdays on KCBS (740 and 106.9). Email: tstienstra@sfchronicle.com Twitter: @StienstraTom