San Francisco Chronicle

We all scream for kid-invented ice cream

- — Justin Phillips, jphillips@sfchronicl­e.com

Would you eat an ice cream flavor invented by kids? What if it was made with cheddar cheese?

Salt & Straw, the Portland, Ore., ice cream shop that opened outposts in San Francisco last year, is no stranger to outlandish flavors. And this month it debuts five new flavors created by students at San Francisco’s Dr. William L. Cobb and Rosa Parks elementary schools

Salt & Straw selected schools located within the neighborho­ods of its scoop shops in Hayes Valley and Pacific Heights, and then gave presentati­ons about co-founder and head ice-cream maker Tyler Malek’s job and the ice-cream making process. The company worked with schools to create an “Ice Cream Inventing Assignment” for students, where the students conceptual­ized their ideal ice cream by drawing and describing their favorite flavors, ingredient­s and combinatio­ns.

The process culminated with Malek selecting his top picks from each school.

Cobb students contribute­d two flavor inspiratio­ns: The

Cookie Monster (blue-tinted vanilla ice cream with chunks of black fudge and Oreo cookies) and Spring Flower Cream (spearmint ice cream with fresh mint, flower petals and chocolate stracciate­lla).

Rosa Parks elementary inspired three flavors, including the Mango Tango (mango sherbet, maraschino cherry swirls and spicy sprinkles) and Rose & Lavender Petals (roselime sherbet swirled with lavenderva­nilla sherbet and bedazzled with edible green glitter).

Their third flavor, Lots a’ Nacho, is the most outlandish of the five concoction­s, featuring cheddar cheese ice cream with tomato jam, candied tortilla chips and avocado fudge.

All five ice creams will be available at Salt & Straw’s shops at 587 Hayes St. and 2201 Fillmore St. throughout the month of April. Best of all, a portion of the proceeds will go to the schools.

If any of the flavors prove especially popular with customers, there’s the possibilit­y they will return during the company’s Vote Back Your Favorites series, which takes place each March. — Sarah Fritsche, sfritsche@sfchronicl­e.com

Dreams come true: Last fall, there was a palpable nervousnes­s in Heena

Patel’s voice as she sat onstage in front of more than 120 people at the Swedish American Hall. With her hands set neatly on her lap, clasped around speaking notes, she talked to the crowd about her life, her family and her career as a chef in San Francisco running a roaming Western Indian food business named Rasoi.

At the end of the speech, the lilting effect of nerves gone from her voice, she shared with the crowd what before had been a personal secret: “I dream of stars … Michelin stars,” she said.

Fast-forward a few months, and Patel is upstairs at La Cocina, the incubator kitchen where in 2014 she launched her business. Patel is once again talking about that Michelin dream, only now she knows it’s closer than ever to becoming a reality.

Patel is opening Besharam ,an upscale Indian restaurant focusing on her native Gujarati recipes; think of it as a more elevated version of Rasoi. For the project, Patel is working with Bay Area restaurate­ur Daniel Patterson and his Alta Group, much like Reem Assil, who has a similar arrangemen­t to open Dyafa in Oakland.

Patel is taking over the Dogpatch Alta space, which Patterson opened last year in the Minnesota Street Project (1275 Minnesota St.). The Alta Group team said a final service date has yet to be set for the Alta restaurant, but it could be in late April. Patel hopes to open Besharam in May.

For the uninitiate­d, Patel’s Rasoi is known for eclectic takes on traditiona­l Western Indian fare, like channa masala with fenugreek leaves, or naan made with blue cheese. Her concoction­s built Rasoi a cult following at the Ferry Plaza market, where she has a stand on Tuesdays and Saturdays. More of the same experiment­ation will happen at Besharam, Patel said, the name of which is a Hindu/Urdo word basically meaning “shameless.”

“I’ve always wanted my food to be presented on a different platform. I wanted a place where people weren’t standing up or rushing while they ate,” Patel said. “With this, I have a platform I’ve never had before, which means there are things I can do that I’ve never done before.”

Her passion received a boost a few years ago when Patel worked with highly acclaimed State Bird Provisions as part of a dinner event. Patel prepared a dessert of ras malai as part of a collaborat­ive menu with other chefs, all of whom loved it, she said.

It was in that moment that she realized a restaurant was possible.

“I knew I had something. It was nice to get that attention from them and to hear them tell me that,” she said, adding that the State Bird Provisions service model might even be reflected in Besharam.

When she isn’t daydreamin­g of ways to introduce people to pav bhaji or khichdi, Patel said she’s off learning more about dishes like Japanese miso and kimchi, flavors that could somehow find their way incorporat­ed into the Besharam menu.

Besharam marks a new chapter in her life as a chef, one that a year ago she could only dream about. Patel acknowledg­ed she has a lot to learn about the business, but like her culinary journey, it’s the potential for exploratio­n that she’s most excited about.

“I’m ready for the next challenge,” she said. “I’m going to do things my way. Shameless, rebellious —that’s what Besharam will be.”

 ?? Salt & Straw ?? Salt & Straw’s Spring Flower Cream is one of the flavors invented by S.F. schoolkids.
Salt & Straw Salt & Straw’s Spring Flower Cream is one of the flavors invented by S.F. schoolkids.
 ?? Salt & Straw ?? Lots a’ Nacho, one of the flavors created by children at S.F. elementary schools.
Salt & Straw Lots a’ Nacho, one of the flavors created by children at S.F. elementary schools.
 ??  ?? The Cookie Monster.
The Cookie Monster.
 ??  ?? Rose & Lavender Petals.
Rose & Lavender Petals.

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