San Francisco Chronicle

The ‘caviar’ of citrus for your garden

- By Earl Nickel Earl Nickel is an Oakland nurseryman and freelance writer. Email: food@sfchronicl­e.com

It isn’t often gardeners get to hear the word “caviar” used in the context of a plant in their garden, but that is a valid associatio­n when one is talking about the unique citrus tree called finger lime. Right away, throw out everything you know about limes. Finger lime (Microcitru­s australasi­ca) is a small, shrubby and thorny tree native to the eastern coastal rain forest of Australia. Trees vary in height from 5 to 12 feet, with a spread of as much as 6 feet. The slender 2-inch green leaves and the white flowers that appear in summer are smaller than what is found on most lime trees. But what will make you want to take this Aussie home is its unique fruit.

Microcitru­s australasi­ca owes its common name to the slender 3-inch thin-skinned fruit that appears in early fall. The outer peel can range in color from the commonly found purplish or greenish black to light green or rusty red. But that’s just the preview: When the fruit is cut in half, the pearlescen­t juice vesicles ooze out like mini eruptions. Unlike the teardrop sacs in regular citrus, the finger lime’s greenish-white or pinkish vesicles are round and firm and do indeed resemble caviar. But the real surprise comes in the tasting: The tart vesicles pop on the tongue, again like caviar, exploding flavor that gourmets have described as intense lemon and lime with herbaceous notes. Even the aromatic rind follows a different drummer. Rind oil contains isomenthon­e, common in mint but rarely found in citrus.

To get an immediate hit of the zesty finger lime, cut a fruit in half and, using the unopened end as a kind of toothpaste tube, squeeze some of the beads onto your tongue. Voila! Instant lime caviar.

You can top oysters, scallops or sushi with finger lime pulp. Spice up vegetarian nigiri sushi with papaya and a touch of lime “caviar.” Finger limes have even found their way into the world of cocktails. How about christenin­g a mojito with a little finger lime juice? You can even class up a classic gin and tonic with a bit of “imported caviar.”

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Getty Images

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